Sevillian Taberna€€santa-cruz
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz hung jamones from the ceiling in 1870 and is an essential Santa Cruz taberna for working-day tapas.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. The standing bar is the working-day pick; the wooden tables behind take walk-in groups.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670, with the cuenta still chalked on the wooden bar top.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is the reservation room.
Spanish tapas€€el-arenal
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850 with vermut pulled from giant wood casks and a cured-meat counter.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Vermut from the barrel, Carrillada
Order: Solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Walk-ins usually OK.
Spanish tapas€santa-cruz
Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas by locals, serves the city's canonical montadito de pringa across the long marble counter at the threshold.
Signature: Montadito de pringa, Tortillitas de bacalao, Solomillo al whisky
Order: The montadito de pringa casera and tortillitas de bacalao with a cana of Cruzcampo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00-24:00. Standing-only at the counter; staff chalk your bill on the bar in front of you, paid at the end.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: Tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa with fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Spanish tapas€centro
Cerveceria El Tremendo on Calle San Felipe in Seville is a tiny old-fashioned beer counter near the centro, with bocadillos, montaditos and seasonal.
Signature: Bocadillos, Montaditos, Caracoles
Order: A montadito de pringa and a half-pint of beer; the seasonal caracoles in summer.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. Standing-only and tiny; arrive before 21:00 to find a slot at the bar.