Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Madrid actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Madrid actually eats.
Casa Lucas on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna since 1997, with a focused carte of solomillo Carlitos (pork sirloin with cabrales sauce).
Signature: Solomillo Carlitos, Croquetas, Ensaladilla rusa
Order: The solomillo Carlitos, the croquetas de jamon and the ensaladilla rusa.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The bar at the entrance takes walk-ins for tapas; the dining room books fast.
Celso y Manolo in Madrid's Chueca is the 1928-revived taberna by the Carlos Zamora group, with a vermut barrel, tortilla de patatas and croquetas at counter.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Vermut
Order: A vermut de grifo (3 euros) at the bar, the croquetas (3 euros each) and the tortilla de patatas.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the dining room takes reservations. The terrace on Calle Libertad fills up by 13:00.
Juana La Loca on Plaza Puerta de Moros in Madrid's La Latina serves the city's most-talked-about tortilla de patata with caramelized onion, plus modern tapas.
Signature: Tortilla de patata caramelizada, Foie con compota de manzana, Croquetas
Order: The tortilla de patata caramelizada (pincho 4 euros, racion 14).
Tip: Walk-in for the bar; the dining room books three days ahead. The tortilla is sliced at the counter for the bar crowd.
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid's Centro is the old-Madrid taberna for the offal canon: callos, oreja, mollejas and zarajos served from the formica counter.
Signature: Callos, Oreja a la plancha, Mollejas
Order: Oreja a la plancha (6 euros), callos a la madrilena (8 euros) and a cana. A glass of vermut to start.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred; the formica counter has no card terminal until 2024.
El Tigre in Madrid's Chueca pours large jars of cana and serves free heaped plates of patatas bravas, croquetas, jamon and bocadillos with every drink.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Croquetas, Bocadillos
Order: A jarra of cana (5 euros) which arrives with a free plate of bravas, croquetas, oreja and jamon.
Tip: Cash only. The original bar at number 23 is the loudest; the satellite at number 30 is calmer. No table service.
Casa Camacho in Madrid's Malasana has poured the yayo (vermut with gin and seltzer, served from height) since 1928. Kitchen leans madrileno taberna.
Signature: Yayo (vermut cocktail), Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A yayo cocktail (3 euros) at the bar, boquerones en vinagre and a tortilla pincho. Round of cana.
Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only. Closed Sundays. The bar is tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 21:30 to find space.
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles (snails in spicy chorizo broth) for a Sunday rastro crowd.
Signature: Caracoles a la madrilena, Callos, Cocido
Order: A racion of caracoles a la madrilena (12 euros) eaten with bread, and a glass of vermut.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the rastro market; very busy after 12:00. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred at the bar.
Bar La Ideal off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the bocadillo de calamares counters that built the local lunch tradition, with battered squid rings.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Cana, Croquetas
Order: Bocadillo de calamares (5.50 euros) with a slice of lemon and a cana. Order at the counter to save time.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar gets busy at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar; the dining room takes card.
La Tasqueria de Javi Estevez moved from Salamanca to Chamberi in 2024, keeping the 1-star Michelin and the brief that elevates casqueria (offal).
Signature: Cabeza de cochinillo crujiente, Sesos rebozados, Lengua estofada
Order: The cabeza de cochinillo crujiente, the sesos rebozados and the tasting menu (65 euros lunch, 95 dinner).
Tip: Book three weeks ahead for the seven-seat counter; the dining room books one week. Closed Sun-Mon.
Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Taberneros in Madrid's Centro is the modern taberna by chef Estanislao Carenzo, with a market-led carte of tartares, croquetas and tortilla.
Signature: Steak tartare, Croquetas, Tortilla
Order: The steak tartare prepared at the table and the tortilla de patatas. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is the original cellar; ask when reserving.
El Pescador on Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset in Madrid's Salamanca has cooked Galician seafood since 1976, with a live tank of shellfish and the rape (monkfish).
Signature: Pulpo a la gallega, Almejas a la marinera, Pixin a la plancha
Order: Pulpo a la gallega (24 euros), almejas a la marinera and a half-bottle of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The marble counter seats 8; the dining room is wood-panelled and formal.
El Doble on Calle Ponzano in Madrid is the cana doble (double-pour beer in tall glasses) headline counter, with sharp Mahou and short-cellar wines.
Signature: Cana doble, Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A cana doble (3.50 euros) at the bar with boquerones en vinagre and a pincho de tortilla.
Tip: Walk-in only. Standing room at the bar. Cash strongly preferred. The terrace is on weekends only.
Casa Gonzalez on Calle del Leon in Madrid's Barrio de las Letras is the 1931-founded ultramarinos (deli-and-wine-bar), with 30 by-the-glass wines and tablas.
Signature: Tablas de quesos, Iberico, Wines by the glass
Order: A tabla de quesos (12 euros), a plate of jamon iberico de bellota and three by-the-glass wines.
Tip: Walk-in only; the marble tables fill up by 13:30. Closed Sundays. The deli sells the same products to take away.
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra.
Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.
Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos.
Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.
Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut
Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.
Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.