Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs the modern Spanish tapas canon.
Signature dishes: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Must order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Address: Plaza Canovas del Castillo 4, 28014 Madrid
Taberneros in Madrid's Centro is the modern taberna by chef Estanislao Carenzo, with a market-led carte of tartares, croquetas and tortilla, plus a focused wine list since 2009.
Signature: Steak tartare, Croquetas, Tortilla
Order: The steak tartare prepared at the table and the tortilla de patatas. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is the original cellar; ask when reserving.
El Pescador on Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset in Madrid's Salamanca has cooked Galician seafood since 1976, with a live tank of shellfish and the rape (monkfish) and pulpo running the carte.
Signature: Pulpo a la gallega, Almejas a la marinera, Pixin a la plancha
Order: Pulpo a la gallega (24 euros), almejas a la marinera and a half-bottle of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The marble counter seats 8; the dining room is wood-panelled and formal.
El Doble on Calle Ponzano in Madrid is the cana doble (double-pour beer in tall glasses) headline counter, with sharp Mahou and short-cellar wines. Boquerones, tortilla and croquetas under 5 euros.
Signature: Cana doble, Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A cana doble (3.50 euros) at the bar with boquerones en vinagre and a pincho de tortilla.
Tip: Walk-in only. Standing room at the bar. Cash strongly preferred. The terrace is on weekends only.
Casa Gonzalez on Calle del Leon in Madrid's Barrio de las Letras is the 1931-founded ultramarinos (deli-and-wine-bar), with 30 by-the-glass wines and tablas of jamon iberico, queso and conservas.
Signature: Tablas de quesos, Iberico, Wines by the glass
Order: A tabla de quesos (12 euros), a plate of jamon iberico de bellota and three by-the-glass wines.
Tip: Walk-in only; the marble tables fill up by 13:30. Closed Sundays. The deli sells the same products to take away.
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra of seasonal plates since 1981.
Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.
Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos, boquerones and croquetas for the working-day lunch.
Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
