Vermut, tapas€€retiro
Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos, boquerones and croquetas for the working-day lunch.
Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
Basque sidreria€€las-letras
El Zerain on Calle de la Cruz in Madrid is the Basque sidreria with a coal grill at the back of the room, the chuleton de buey for two, tortilla de bacalao and natural cider poured from height.
Signature: Chuleton de buey, Tortilla de bacalao, Sidra
Order: The chuleton de buey for two (700g, EUR 80) cooked rare and the tortilla de bacalao. Bottle of natural cider.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is small; the upstairs is the spillover.
Madrileno taberna€la-latina
Casa Mariano on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has run the Sunday vermut crowd since the 1960s, with the tortilla, croquetas and the broken-egg dishes that anchor every La Latina taberna crawl.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Cana
Order: Tortilla de patatas con jamon (10 euros), croquetas de jamon and a vermut de grifo.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the vermut crawl; the bar is full by 13:30. Cash preferred. Closed Mondays.
Bocadillo specialist€centro
Casa Puerto Rico off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the Centro counters serving bocadillo de calamares to a midday crowd, with squid rings fried in a small kitchen behind the standing-room bar.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Tortilla, Cana
Order: Bocadillo de calamares (5 euros), a slice of lemon and a cana. Tortilla pincho on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; standing room at the bar. Cash preferred. Open daily including Sundays through the rastro hours.
Madrileno taberna€malasana
Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas and the antique mosaic tile floor still original.
Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut
Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.
Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.
Modern Madrileno€€la-latina
Taberna Matritum on Cava Alta in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna by chef Tony Sanjuan, with a focused carte of cocido, tartare and seasonal market plates since 2010.
Signature: Cocido, Steak tartare, Croquetas
Order: The croquetas de jamon, the steak tartare and the cocido madrileno (weekdays only).
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace on Cava Alta seats six; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
