Bar La Ideal off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the bocadillo de calamares counters that built the local lunch tradition, with battered squid rings on a fresh roll and a cana for under 8 euros.
Signature dishes: Bocadillo de calamares, Cana, Croquetas
Must order: Bocadillo de calamares (5.50 euros) with a slice of lemon and a cana. Order at the counter to save time.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar gets busy at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar; the dining room takes card.
Address: Calle Botoneras 4, 28012 Madrid
Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs the modern Spanish tapas canon.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Stuyck & Co on Calle Modesto Lafuente in Madrid's Chamberi is the American-style smokehouse since 2018, smoking brisket and ribs over wood for 14 hours, served by weight from the counter.
Signature: Brisket, Pulled pork, Mac and cheese
Order: Brisket plate by weight (28 euros per kilo) with mac and cheese and pickles. Glass of Mencia.
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter; the dining room takes reservations. Sells out by 21:30 on weekends.
Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs the modern Spanish tapas canon.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Taberneros in Madrid's Centro is the modern taberna by chef Estanislao Carenzo, with a market-led carte of tartares, croquetas and tortilla, plus a focused wine list since 2009.
Signature: Steak tartare, Croquetas, Tortilla
Order: The steak tartare prepared at the table and the tortilla de patatas. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is the original cellar; ask when reserving.
El Pescador on Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset in Madrid's Salamanca has cooked Galician seafood since 1976, with a live tank of shellfish and the rape (monkfish) and pulpo running the carte.
Signature: Pulpo a la gallega, Almejas a la marinera, Pixin a la plancha
Order: Pulpo a la gallega (24 euros), almejas a la marinera and a half-bottle of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The marble counter seats 8; the dining room is wood-panelled and formal.
El Doble on Calle Ponzano in Madrid is the cana doble (double-pour beer in tall glasses) headline counter, with sharp Mahou and short-cellar wines. Boquerones, tortilla and croquetas under 5 euros.
Signature: Cana doble, Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A cana doble (3.50 euros) at the bar with boquerones en vinagre and a pincho de tortilla.
Tip: Walk-in only. Standing room at the bar. Cash strongly preferred. The terrace is on weekends only.
Casa Gonzalez on Calle del Leon in Madrid's Barrio de las Letras is the 1931-founded ultramarinos (deli-and-wine-bar), with 30 by-the-glass wines and tablas of jamon iberico, queso and conservas.
Signature: Tablas de quesos, Iberico, Wines by the glass
Order: A tabla de quesos (12 euros), a plate of jamon iberico de bellota and three by-the-glass wines.
Tip: Walk-in only; the marble tables fill up by 13:30. Closed Sundays. The deli sells the same products to take away.
