El Tigre in Madrid's Chueca pours large jars of cana and serves free heaped plates of patatas bravas, croquetas, jamon and bocadillos with every drink, in a standing-room three-bar arrangement since 2003.
Signature dishes: Patatas bravas, Croquetas, Bocadillos
Must order: A jarra of cana (5 euros) which arrives with a free plate of bravas, croquetas, oreja and jamon.
Tip: Cash only. The original bar at number 23 is the loudest; the satellite at number 30 is calmer. No table service.
Address: Calle de las Infantas 23, 28004 Madrid
Casa Camacho in Madrid's Malasana has poured the yayo (vermut with gin and seltzer, served from height) since 1928. The 95-year-old taberna runs on cash, formica tables and standing-room only.
Signature: Yayo (vermut cocktail), Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A yayo cocktail (3 euros) at the bar, boquerones en vinagre and a tortilla pincho. Round of cana.
Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only. Closed Sundays. The bar is tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 21:30 to find space.
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles (snails in spicy chorizo broth) for a Sunday rastro crowd since 1942. Three generations still run it.
Signature: Caracoles a la madrilena, Callos, Cocido
Order: A racion of caracoles a la madrilena (12 euros) eaten with bread, and a glass of vermut. Add the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the rastro market; very busy after 12:00. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred at the bar.
Bar La Ideal off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the bocadillo de calamares counters that built the local lunch tradition, with battered squid rings on a fresh roll and a cana for under 8 euros.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Cana, Croquetas
Order: Bocadillo de calamares (5.50 euros) with a slice of lemon and a cana. Order at the counter to save time.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar gets busy at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar; the dining room takes card.
Stuyck & Co on Calle Modesto Lafuente in Madrid's Chamberi is the American-style smokehouse since 2018, smoking brisket and ribs over wood for 14 hours, served by weight from the counter.
Signature: Brisket, Pulled pork, Mac and cheese
Order: Brisket plate by weight (28 euros per kilo) with mac and cheese and pickles. Glass of Mencia.
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter; the dining room takes reservations. Sells out by 21:30 on weekends.
Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs the modern Spanish tapas canon.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Taberneros in Madrid's Centro is the modern taberna by chef Estanislao Carenzo, with a market-led carte of tartares, croquetas and tortilla, plus a focused wine list since 2009.
Signature: Steak tartare, Croquetas, Tortilla
Order: The steak tartare prepared at the table and the tortilla de patatas. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is the original cellar; ask when reserving.
