Madrileno Taberna€€retiroMon-Sat 11:00-16:00, 20:00-00:00; Sun closed
La Castela near El Retiro in Madrid is the family-run taberna behind a zinc bar, with croquetas de bacalao, pisto manchego and the daily-changing pizarra.
Signature: Croquetas de bacalao, Pisto manchego, Tartar de atun
Order: The croquetas de bacalao, the pisto manchego with fried egg, and a tartar de atun. Cana de Mahou.
Tip: Book two days ahead for weekday lunch. The bar serves the same pizarra menu standing for half the dining room price.
Spanish tapas€€retiroTue-Sat 12:00-16:00, 19:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-16:00; Mon closed
Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos.
Signature: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
Madrileno Taberna€malasanaMon-Fri 09:00-02:00; Sat-Sun 09:00-02:30
Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.
Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut
Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.
Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.
Spanish tapas€€la-latinaMon-Tue and Thu and Sun 13:00-15:30 and 20:00-24:00; Wed 20:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-01:00
Casa Lucas on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna since 1997, with a focused carte of solomillo Carlitos (pork sirloin with cabrales sauce).
Signature: Solomillo Carlitos, Croquetas, Ensaladilla rusa
Order: The solomillo Carlitos, the croquetas de jamon and the ensaladilla rusa.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The bar at the entrance takes walk-ins for tapas; the dining room books fast.
Madrileno Taberna€€chuecaSun-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-02:00
Celso y Manolo in Madrid's Chueca is the 1928-revived taberna by the Carlos Zamora group, with a vermut barrel, tortilla de patatas and croquetas at counter.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Vermut
Order: A vermut de grifo (3 euros) at the bar, the croquetas (3 euros each) and the tortilla de patatas.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the dining room takes reservations. The terrace on Calle Libertad fills up by 13:00.
Spanish tapas€€la-latinaMon 19:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 13:00-17:00 and 19:00-24:00; Fri 13:00-17:00 and 19:00-01:00; Sat 13:00-19:00 and 20:00-01:00; Sun 13:00-19:00 and 20:00-24:00
Juana La Loca on Plaza Puerta de Moros in Madrid's La Latina serves the city's most-talked-about tortilla de patata with caramelized onion, plus modern tapas.
Signature: Tortilla de patata caramelizada, Foie con compota de manzana, Croquetas
Order: The tortilla de patata caramelizada (pincho 4 euros, racion 14).
Tip: Walk-in for the bar; the dining room books three days ahead. The tortilla is sliced at the counter for the bar crowd.