Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles (snails in spicy chorizo broth) for a Sunday rastro crowd since 1942. Three generations still run it.
Signature dishes: Caracoles a la madrilena, Callos, Cocido
Must order: A racion of caracoles a la madrilena (12 euros) eaten with bread, and a glass of vermut. Add the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the rastro market; very busy after 12:00. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred at the bar.
Address: Plaza de Cascorro 18, 28005 Madrid
Bar La Ideal off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the bocadillo de calamares counters that built the local lunch tradition, with battered squid rings on a fresh roll and a cana for under 8 euros.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Cana, Croquetas
Order: Bocadillo de calamares (5.50 euros) with a slice of lemon and a cana. Order at the counter to save time.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar gets busy at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar; the dining room takes card.
Stuyck & Co on Calle Modesto Lafuente in Madrid's Chamberi is the American-style smokehouse since 2018, smoking brisket and ribs over wood for 14 hours, served by weight from the counter.
Signature: Brisket, Pulled pork, Mac and cheese
Order: Brisket plate by weight (28 euros per kilo) with mac and cheese and pickles. Glass of Mencia.
Tip: Walk-in only at the counter; the dining room takes reservations. Sells out by 21:30 on weekends.
Estado Puro on Plaza Canovas in Madrid is the modern-tapas room by Paco Roncero, with a clean white dining room, an open kitchen and a carte that runs the modern Spanish tapas canon.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Tortilla de Sacha, Croquetas
Order: The patatas bravas (8 euros), the tortilla de Sacha (deconstructed in a glass) and the croquetas de jamon.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace seats 12; the inside dining room is the design-led room.
Taberneros in Madrid's Centro is the modern taberna by chef Estanislao Carenzo, with a market-led carte of tartares, croquetas and tortilla, plus a focused wine list since 2009.
Signature: Steak tartare, Croquetas, Tortilla
Order: The steak tartare prepared at the table and the tortilla de patatas. A bottle of Mencia.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is the original cellar; ask when reserving.
El Pescador on Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset in Madrid's Salamanca has cooked Galician seafood since 1976, with a live tank of shellfish and the rape (monkfish) and pulpo running the carte.
Signature: Pulpo a la gallega, Almejas a la marinera, Pixin a la plancha
Order: Pulpo a la gallega (24 euros), almejas a la marinera and a half-bottle of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The marble counter seats 8; the dining room is wood-panelled and formal.
El Doble on Calle Ponzano in Madrid is the cana doble (double-pour beer in tall glasses) headline counter, with sharp Mahou and short-cellar wines. Boquerones, tortilla and croquetas under 5 euros.
Signature: Cana doble, Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A cana doble (3.50 euros) at the bar with boquerones en vinagre and a pincho de tortilla.
Tip: Walk-in only. Standing room at the bar. Cash strongly preferred. The terrace is on weekends only.
