Madrileno Taberna€malasanaMon-Fri 09:00-02:00; Sat-Sun 09:00-02:30
Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas.
Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut
Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.
Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.
Spanish tapas€€la-latinaMon-Tue and Thu and Sun 13:00-15:30 and 20:00-24:00; Wed 20:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:00-01:00
Casa Lucas on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna since 1997, with a focused carte of solomillo Carlitos (pork sirloin with cabrales sauce).
Signature: Solomillo Carlitos, Croquetas, Ensaladilla rusa
Order: The solomillo Carlitos, the croquetas de jamon and the ensaladilla rusa.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The bar at the entrance takes walk-ins for tapas; the dining room books fast.
Madrileno Taberna€€chuecaSun-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-02:00
Celso y Manolo in Madrid's Chueca is the 1928-revived taberna by the Carlos Zamora group, with a vermut barrel, tortilla de patatas and croquetas at counter.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Vermut
Order: A vermut de grifo (3 euros) at the bar, the croquetas (3 euros each) and the tortilla de patatas.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the dining room takes reservations. The terrace on Calle Libertad fills up by 13:00.
Spanish tapas€€la-latinaMon 19:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 13:00-17:00 and 19:00-24:00; Fri 13:00-17:00 and 19:00-01:00; Sat 13:00-19:00 and 20:00-01:00; Sun 13:00-19:00 and 20:00-24:00
Juana La Loca on Plaza Puerta de Moros in Madrid's La Latina serves the city's most-talked-about tortilla de patata with caramelized onion, plus modern tapas.
Signature: Tortilla de patata caramelizada, Foie con compota de manzana, Croquetas
Order: The tortilla de patata caramelizada (pincho 4 euros, racion 14).
Tip: Walk-in for the bar; the dining room books three days ahead. The tortilla is sliced at the counter for the bar crowd.
Madrileno Taberna€centroMon-Thu 12:00-16:00 and 19:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-16:30 and 19:00-01:30; Sat 12:30-16:30 and 19:00-01:30; Sun 12:30-16:30 and 19:00-24:00
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid's Centro is the old-Madrid taberna for the offal canon: callos, oreja, mollejas and zarajos served from the formica counter.
Signature: Callos, Oreja a la plancha, Mollejas
Order: Oreja a la plancha (6 euros), callos a la madrilena (8 euros) and a cana. A glass of vermut to start.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred; the formica counter has no card terminal until 2024.
Spanish tapas€chuecaSun-Thu 12:00-02:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:30
El Tigre in Madrid's Chueca pours large jars of cana and serves free heaped plates of patatas bravas, croquetas, jamon and bocadillos with every drink.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Croquetas, Bocadillos
Order: A jarra of cana (5 euros) which arrives with a free plate of bravas, croquetas, oreja and jamon.
Tip: Cash only. The original bar at number 23 is the loudest; the satellite at number 30 is calmer. No table service.