Bodegas Rosell near Atocha in Madrid has poured the vermut de grifo from oak barrels since 1920, with a marble counter, formica tables and bocadillos, boquerones and croquetas for the working-day lunch.
Signature dishes: Vermut de grifo, Boquerones, Bocadillo de calamares
Must order: A vermut de grifo (2.50 euros) and a bocadillo de calamares. A pincho de tortilla on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred at the bar. The terrace is on weekends only.
Address: Calle General Lacy 14, 28045 Madrid
El Zerain on Calle de la Cruz in Madrid is the Basque sidreria with a coal grill at the back of the room, the chuleton de buey for two, tortilla de bacalao and natural cider poured from height.
Signature: Chuleton de buey, Tortilla de bacalao, Sidra
Order: The chuleton de buey for two (700g, EUR 80) cooked rare and the tortilla de bacalao. Bottle of natural cider.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The downstairs dining room is small; the upstairs is the spillover.
Casa Mariano on Cava Baja in Madrid's La Latina has run the Sunday vermut crowd since the 1960s, with the tortilla, croquetas and the broken-egg dishes that anchor every La Latina taberna crawl.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Cana
Order: Tortilla de patatas con jamon (10 euros), croquetas de jamon and a vermut de grifo.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the vermut crawl; the bar is full by 13:30. Cash preferred. Closed Mondays.
Casa Puerto Rico off Plaza Mayor in Madrid is one of the Centro counters serving bocadillo de calamares to a midday crowd, with squid rings fried in a small kitchen behind the standing-room bar.
Signature: Bocadillo de calamares, Tortilla, Cana
Order: Bocadillo de calamares (5 euros), a slice of lemon and a cana. Tortilla pincho on the side.
Tip: Walk-in only; standing room at the bar. Cash preferred. Open daily including Sundays through the rastro hours.
Bodega de la Ardosa in Madrid's Malasana has poured the vermut de grifo since 1892 from the 30-foot zinc bar, with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas and the antique mosaic tile floor still original.
Signature: Salmorejo, Tortilla de patatas, Vermut
Order: Vermut de grifo (2.50 euros), a slice of tortilla de patatas, salmorejo. Crawl in via the back door.
Tip: Walk-in only; the back room takes 8 people max. The historic main bar fills up at 13:00; cash preferred.
Taberna Matritum on Cava Alta in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna by chef Tony Sanjuan, with a focused carte of cocido, tartare and seasonal market plates since 2010.
Signature: Cocido, Steak tartare, Croquetas
Order: The croquetas de jamon, the steak tartare and the cocido madrileno (weekdays only).
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace on Cava Alta seats six; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
Celso y Manolo in Madrid's Chueca is the 1928-revived taberna by the Carlos Zamora group, with a vermut barrel, tortilla de patatas and croquetas at counter prices in a marble-tile dining room.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Vermut
Order: A vermut de grifo (3 euros) at the bar, the croquetas (3 euros each) and the tortilla de patatas.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the dining room takes reservations. The terrace on Calle Libertad fills up by 13:00.
