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Wine barSan Andres
JUGO Vinos Vivos is the natural-wine counter on Plaza de San Andrés in Córdoba, a shop and tasting room in a city that drinks almost entirely fortified.
OrderA glass of whatever is open, plus cheese and bread to go with it.
PourWhatever natural bottle is open on the counter that day
WineNatural and biodynamic bottles, Spanish and beyond
FoodCheese, sourdough and preserves
TipIt keeps shop hours, Monday to Friday only, so any weekend visit will find the shutters down.
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Wine barCorredera
Taberna Salinas stores its wine in eleven American-oak barrels in Córdoba and has poured house Montilla-Moriles beside 1920 azulejos since 1924.
OrderA copa of the house fino before you look at the food carta.
PourThe house fino, drawn from the botas
WineHouse Montilla-Moriles drawn from eleven American-oak barrels behind the counter
FoodFull cordobés carta
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
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Wine barCentro
Casa El Pisto has poured on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a taberna and tobacconist whose walls are papered with bullfighting history.
OrderA fino at the counter, then the pisto with a fried egg.
PourA copa of the house fino at the marble counter
WineHouse Montilla-Moriles alongside the bullfighting-era fittings
FoodPisto, rabo de toro, callos
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
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Wine barRibera
The silversmiths' guild taberna on Calle San Francisco in Córdoba pours its own Montilla-Moriles labels around a patio set under a glass roof.
OrderA copa of Oro Viejo, the guild's own bottling.
PourOro Viejo, one of the house labels
WineThe guild's own Montilla-Moriles labels
FoodCordobés tapas with a documented coeliac protocol
TipTell the staff if you are coeliac; they swap every round plate on the table for a square one.
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Wine barCentro
Taberna La Fuenseca pours fino en rama over a wooden bar on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register.
OrderFino en rama, which is the whole reason the bar has a following.
PourFino en rama, unfiltered and poured cold
WineFino en rama and the rest of the Montilla-Moriles range
FoodCordobés tapas
TipService stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so plan it as an early-evening stop.
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Wine barSanta Marina
Taberna Regina holds a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, a registered historic taberna pouring Montilla-Moriles generosos to a mostly local room.
OrderAn amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.
PourAn amontillado from the house range
WineMontilla-Moriles generosos by the copa
FoodCordobés tapas
TipThe copa hour is midday Wednesday to Sunday, with an evening pour on Friday and Saturday only.