Modern Portuguese€€Graca
Damas in Lisbon's Graca: a bakery-bar-bistro hybrid on Rua da Voz do Operario, modern Portuguese plates by day, live music and natural wine by night.
Signature: Daily specials, Natural wines
Order: Whatever the chef wrote on the blackboard plus a glass of natural pet-nat.
Portuguese seafood and beer hall€€chiado
Cervejaria Trindade in Chiado, Lisbon: an 1836 beer hall in the old Trinitarian convent, blue azulejos walls, prawns, steaks and Sagres on tap.
Signature: Steak Trindade, Tiger prawns
Order: Steak Trindade in beer sauce and a Sagres on tap.
Seafood€€€Intendente
Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon: a 1950s seafood hall on Avenida Almirante Reis where goose barnacles, tiger prawns and clams come straight off the boat.
Signature: Goose barnacles, Tiger prawns, Steak sandwich
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato then a prego no pao to close.
Modern Portuguese€€€€bairro-alto
100 Maneiras in Lisbon's Bairro Alto: Ljubomir Stanisic's Bosnian-Portuguese tasting room, ten courses nightly. Reservation essential.
Signature: Tasting menu
Order: Whichever ten-course tasting menu the kitchen is running this season.
Modern Portuguese€€€chiado
Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's 1000 sqm complex housing the Taberna, Pateo, Mini Bar and Pizzaria Lisboa under one roof.
Signature: Octopus a lagareiro, Bairro suckling pig
Order: The Taberna's exploding olives and a glass of Esporao branco.
Modern Portuguese€€€chiado
Cantinho do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's longest-running room, open since 2011, small plates that travel from Portugal to South America.
Signature: Black pork Alentejo style, Scallops with avocado
Order: The deep-fried green beans alongside Alentejo-style black pork.