The medieval Old Town between Mount Urgull and La Concha bay, the pintxo crawl ground zero with 200-plus bars across nine blocks around 31 de Agosto and Fermin Calbeton.
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.
Signature: Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil, Cigala a la plancha, Txuleta de vaca vieja
Order: The kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.
Tip: Eat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso
Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian opened in 1999 from chefs trained at Lasarte and El Bulli, cooking made-to-order modern.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Risotto de Idiazabal
Order: The carrillera de ternera braised in red wine; the foie a la plancha with apple compote.
Tip: No display counter; read the blackboard. Queue early before 13:00 or after 21:00, the bar gets four deep at peak.
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos with bold Basque flavours, no counter display, just a tight list of plates.
Signature: Risotto de Idiazabal, Carrillera al vino tinto, Costilla de Basatxerri
Order: The Idiazabal risotto with puntalette pasta; the Basatxerri pork ribs with ras el hanout.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Cash and card both. Stand outside if the bar is full; food comes out fast.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter sauteed with egg yolk; the spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The bar counter is walk-in; the basement dining room takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked exactly four things since 1981: txuleta of old-cow ribeye, tomato salad, pimientos de Padron.
Signature: Txuleta de vaca vieja, Ensalada de tomate, Tortilla de patatas
Order: The txuleta on the chargrill, the tomato salad with sea salt.
Tip: Tortilla is two per day, twelve to seventeen slices; show up an hour before service. Txuleta needs a list-name on arrival.
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake.
Signature: Tarta de queso La Vina, Pintxos clasicos, Bacalao al pil pil
Order: The tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos with a stand-and-eat.
Signature: Brocheta de langostinos, Solomillo con foie, Pintxos de autor
Order: The prawn brochette and the solomillo-foie skewer; finish with a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
Tip: Open until 01:00 weekdays, 02:30 weekends; the terrace fills first. No reservations, walk-in only.
Gandarias on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town runs one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a back dining room.
Signature: Solomillo a la plancha, Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The solomillo a la plancha on bread with sea salt and a fried Padron; the jamon iberico from the counter.
Tip: Open continuously through siesta, the rare Old Town room that does not shut at 16:00. The counter is busy; the back room takes reservations.
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking.
Signature: Callos y morros, Brasa de carne, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.
Tip: Pintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a classic counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with the house Txakoli.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno de changurro, Carrillera
Order: The grilled foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab; a glass of house Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in only; counter standing room. Open until midnight daily, weekends from 11:00.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
Tip: Stand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa de Pescaderia, Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.
Tip: Walk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked one thing since 1967: mussels by the dozen, in five sauces, served standing at the bar.
Signature: Mejillones a la vinagreta, Patatas bravas, Mejillones al vapor
Order: A dozen mussels a la vinagreta and a dozen al vapor; bravas to share; cana of Estrella.
Tip: Standing only, no tables. Cash-friendly. Closed Wednesdays Booking recommended for weekends.
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now run by the third generation of the Martinez.
Signature: Pintxos de marisco, Brocheta de gambas, Pulpo a la plancha
Order: A pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus, the prawn brochette.
Tip: Counter is busy from 13:00 and 21:00; weekends and August are extremely crowded. No reservations.
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits across from the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
Signature: Bacalao al pil pil, Pintxo de tortilla, Brocheta
Order: The bacalao al pil pil pintxo from the counter; the tortilla pintxo by the slice.
Tip: Front terrace fills first; the church-step view is the standing-room reward. Open daily.
Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos, Menu del dia
Order: A plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.
Tip: Open daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.
Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Brocheta
Order: A tortilla pintxo from the counter; sit down for the steak or seared fish in the back.
Tip: Counter pintxos are pay-as-you-go; back room takes reservations through their site. Closed Tuesdays.
Bar Astelena on Calle Inigo in San Sebastian's Old Town, in business since 1960, runs a tight counter of pintxos plus a small dining room behind for sit-down.
Signature: Foie con compota, Carrillera, Pintxos del dia
Order: The foie con compota de manzana; the carrillera braised in red wine.
Tip: Smaller crowd than the Calle 31 de Agosto rooms; lunch sit-down requires booking by phone.
Sirimiri Gastroleku on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a contemporary pintxo bar with fresh fish ceviches, slow-cooked carrillera and a small.
Signature: Ceviche, Carrillera, Pato
Order: The seasonal fish ceviche; the slow-cooked beef cheek.
Tip: Sit at the counter to watch the kitchen; the back dining room is a sit-down service.
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits opposite the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
Signature: Bacalao al pil pil, Brocheta, Pintxo de tortilla
Order: The bacalao al pil pil pintxo; the tortilla by the slice; a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
Tip: Terrace seating across from the basilica fills first. Open daily; standing room only.
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs a Basque pintxo counter and a back-room.
Signature: Brasa de carne, Callos y morros, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list; the brasa-grilled chuleton from the back.
Tip: Brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00. Stand at the front bar for pintxos.
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos and a church-step.
Signature: Brocheta de langostinos, Solomillo con foie, Pintxos de autor
Order: The langostino brochette; the solomillo with foie; a Txakoli on the terrace.
Tip: No reservations, walk in only. The terrace is the social hour; pull up at 19:30 to beat the queue.
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos off a tight blackboard menu, no counter display, the Idiazabal-cheese risotto.
Signature: Risotto de Idiazabal, Carrillera al vino tinto, Costilla de Basatxerri
Order: The risotto de Idiazabal con puntalette; the carrillera al vino tinto; the Basatxerri pork ribs.
Tip: Walk in only, closed Sundays. Stand outside if the bar is full; orders come out fast.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a brisk pintxos counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with a Txakoli pour.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno, Carrillera
Order: The foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab.
Tip: Counter standing only. Open daily until midnight; weekends from 11:00.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Stand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now in its third generation with a long counter.
Signature: Pintxos de marisco, Brocheta de gambas, Pulpo a la plancha
Order: Any pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus.
Tip: Busy from 13:00 and 21:00. No reservations. Weekends and August are extremely crowded.
Altxerri Bar and Jazz on Calle Reina Regente in San Sebastian has run the basement jazz cellar under the Altxerri Gallery for over two decades.
Tip: Doors at 19:30, live music from 20:00-22:00, bar open until 02:00; the room is small so arrive before the set. Reservations through altxerri.com help.
Etxekalte Jazz Club on Calle Mari in San Sebastian is the Parte Vieja legacy jazz bar across two floors, with the upstairs pub running late.
Tip: Two rooms across two floors; the cellar is the live-music space, upstairs is the late drink. Harbour-edge perch for the post-pintxos stop off 31 de Agosto.
BE! Club on Paseo de Salamanca in San Sebastian is the 1984 jazz-and-blues room formerly Be Bop, rebranded in 2016 as a late-night piano bar with live music.
Tip: Open daily from 15:00; Friday and Saturday close at 06:30. The river-side perch beside the Bretxa market is the post-pintxos pour for Centro.
Eiger Edaritegia on Calle General Jauregi in San Sebastian is the Old Town rock-and-roll bar lined with vintage gig posters and old cassettes.
Tip: Small room, walk-in only; the bar fills with locals once the tourist crawl thins. Cash flows fastest for the back-bar queue; drinks are unpretentious.
The Rooftop by Lasala Plaza in San Sebastian sits on the seventh floor of the Lasala Plaza Hotel above the Old Town port, the only elevated spot with 360.
Tip: Terrace open daily 10:00-24:00 year-round; cocktail-and-snack service from Ander Gonzalez's La Jarana team runs Easter to October weekends only.
GU San Sebastian sits on top of the 1929 Real Club Nautico on Calle Ijentea, a Jose Manuel Aizpurua rationalist landmark turned cocktail bar and late-night.
Tip: Cocktail bar from 17:00, the floor flips to a club after midnight. Book the sunset-hour seat at the bay-facing windows through gusansebastian.com.
Urgulleko Polboriña sits in the old gunpowder house on Mount Urgull above the Old Town, an open-air summer-only bar with sunset cocktails, sangria.
Tip: Open spring through autumn weather-dependent only; the 20 minute uphill walk from the Old Town starts behind the Museo San Telmo. Cash speeds the bar queue.
Arraun Cocktail Bar on Calle Angel in San Sebastian is the Old Town's quiet-conversation cocktail room, with a Magellan-themed list and house cocktails.
Tip: Open every evening from 19:00, weekends to 04:00; walk-in only, no reservations. Arrive before the 21:00 dinner exodus from the pintxos crawl.
Museo del Whisky on the Boulevard in San Sebastian is the two-floor piano bar with one of the world's largest whisky collections, over 3,400 bottles.
Tip: Closed Sunday; live piano music every night from 22:00. The upstairs collection room is the conversation seat, the downstairs piano room takes the show.
Côte on Calle Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the Old Town's gay-and-friendly cocktail bar, an inclusive late-night room with themed weekend DJ parties.
Tip: Open Wednesday through Sunday from 22:00; Friday and Saturday from 19:00-04:00. Fills after the late-dinner exodus from the Fermin Calbeton crawl.
Akerbeltz on Calle Mari in San Sebastian is the Old Town's queer-leaning waterfront bar with craft taps, the beer menu hand-painted across the slanted.
Tip: Terrace fills at sunset over the Old Port; arrive before 20:00 for a chair. The crowd is mixed gay-and-straight with the late-night rock and electronic mix.
The Museo del Whisky Piano Room in San Sebastian doubles as the city's nearest analogue to a listening bar, two floors of chosen drinks taken to live piano.
Tip: Live piano sessions every night from 22:00; the upstairs displays the 3,400-bottle collection. Conversation volume drops once the pianist starts.