Modern Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Basque€€€parte-vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Basque Pintxos€€centro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Basque Pintxos€€gros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, sets out one of the most decorated miniature-cuisine pintxo counters in the city.
Signature: Txalupa, Itxaso, Tortilla de anchoas
Order: The Txalupa gratin of prawn and mushroom; a wedge of the tortilla de anchoas; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in at the counter; small street terrace fills first. Closed Wednesdays.
Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now in its third generation with a long counter.
Signature: Pintxos de marisco, Brocheta de gambas, Pulpo a la plancha
Order: Any pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus.
Tip: Busy from 13:00 and 21:00. No reservations. Weekends and August are extremely crowded.
Cafe€centroMon-Sat 07:30-23:00, Sun 08:00-15:00
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Cafe con leche, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
Tip: Breakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.