€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
OrderThe autumn setas counter sauteed with egg yolk; the spider crab baked in its shell.
TipClosed Sundays and Mondays. The bar counter is walk-in; the basement dining room takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
OrderThe autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
TipCounter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
€€€€Basque GrillParte Vieja
Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked exactly four things since 1981: txuleta of old-cow ribeye, tomato salad, pimientos de Padron.
OrderThe txuleta on the chargrill, the tomato salad with sea salt.
TipTortilla is two per day, twelve to seventeen slices; show up an hour before service. Txuleta needs a list-name on arrival.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake.
OrderThe tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.
TipClosed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs.
OrderThe kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.
TipEat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.
€€€€Basque Anchovy BarParte Vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.
TipWalk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.
€€€€Basque Anchovy BarParte Vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
TipCounter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
€€€€Basque Grill and PintxosParte Vieja
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking.
OrderThe callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.
TipPintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.
€€€€Modern BasqueParte Vieja
Sirimiri Gastroleku on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a contemporary pintxo bar with fresh fish ceviches, slow-cooked carrillera and a small.
OrderThe seasonal fish ceviche; the slow-cooked beef cheek.
TipSit at the counter to watch the kitchen; the back dining room is a sit-down service.
€€€€Basque Grill and PintxosParte Vieja
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs a Basque pintxo counter and a back-room.
OrderThe callos y morros if it's on the day's list; the brasa-grilled chuleton from the back.
TipBrasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00. Stand at the front bar for pintxos.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu.
OrderA plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.
TipOpen daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.