Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Gandarias on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town runs one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a back dining room.
Signature: Solomillo a la plancha, Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The solomillo a la plancha on bread with sea salt and a fried Padron; the jamon iberico from the counter.
Tip: Open continuously through siesta, the rare Old Town room that does not shut at 16:00. The counter is busy; the back room takes reservations.
Basque Pintxos€€centro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a 28-egg, deep-caramelised tortilla and a gilda built on two anchovies.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla, the double-anchovy gilda; espresso at the counter to finish.
Tip: Tortilla is finished by 14:30 most days; arrive before then. Cash-friendly; the counter is small and stand-only.
Basque Grill and Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking.
Signature: Callos y morros, Brasa de carne, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.
Tip: Pintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.
Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a classic counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with the house Txakoli.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno de changurro, Carrillera
Order: The grilled foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab; a glass of house Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in only; counter standing room. Open until midnight daily, weekends from 11:00.
Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
Tip: Stand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Basque Anchovy Bar€€parte-vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa de Pescaderia, Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.
Tip: Walk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.