Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a brisk pintxos counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with a Txakoli pour and a moving crowd of locals.
Signature dishes: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno, Carrillera
Must order: The foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab.
Tip: Counter standing only. Open daily until midnight; weekends from 11:00.
Address: Fermin Calbeton Kalea 10, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread, plus a tight list of plancha pintxos.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Stand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00 to 16:00 and 18:30 to 23:30.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings from spider crab to pepper jardinera.
Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos with no display, just a blackboard.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter and a basement dining room.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread, plus a tight list of plancha pintxos.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Stand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00 to 16:00 and 18:30 to 23:30.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings from spider crab to pepper jardinera.
Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos with no display, just a blackboard.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter and a basement dining room.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy Donostian gilda.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Hidalgo 56 on Paseo Colon in San Sebastian's Gros runs a busy locals' counter with a daily blackboard of pintxos and the callos y morros that the morning crowd order with cana.
Signature: Callos y morros, Cigala a la plancha, Carrillera
Order: The callos y morros from the blackboard; the seared cigala if it's posted.
Tip: Across from Zurriola beach; the morning crowd is local. Walk in only.
