Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Stand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Basque Anchovy Bar€€parte-vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
Modern Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Basque€€€parte-vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Basque Pintxos€€centro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Basque Pintxos€€gros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, sets out one of the most decorated miniature-cuisine pintxo counters in the city.
Signature: Txalupa, Itxaso, Tortilla de anchoas
Order: The Txalupa gratin of prawn and mushroom; a wedge of the tortilla de anchoas; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in at the counter; small street terrace fills first. Closed Wednesdays.