La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake in a wood-paper-lined tin until the top caramelised.
Signature dishes: Tarta de queso La Vina, Pintxos clasicos, Bacalao al pil pil
Must order: The tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.
Address: Calle 31 de Agosto 3, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos with a stand-and-eat terrace on the church steps.
Signature: Brocheta de langostinos, Solomillo con foie, Pintxos de autor
Order: The prawn brochette and the solomillo-foie skewer; finish with a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
Tip: Open until 01:00 weekdays, 02:30 weekends; the terrace fills first. No reservations, walk-in only.
A Fuego Negro on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, chef Edorta Lamo's avant-garde pintxo room, runs dark walls, indie music and inventive plates pulled from travel and comic-book ideas.
Signature: Black rabas, Makcobe with chips, Pastrami de Euskaltxerri
Order: The black-squid rabas and the Kobe-beef miniburger 'makcobe' with chips.
Tip: Closed Mondays. The counter is small; arrive before 21:00 or after 22:30 to skip the wait.
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking with a coal brasa at the back.
Signature: Callos y morros, Brasa de carne, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.
Tip: Pintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a classic counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with the house Txakoli pours and a fast-moving crowd.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno de changurro, Carrillera
Order: The grilled foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab; a glass of house Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in only; counter standing room. Open until midnight daily, weekends from 11:00.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread, plus a tight list of plancha pintxos.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
Tip: Stand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00 to 16:00 and 18:30 to 23:30.
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos with a stand-and-eat terrace on the church steps.
Signature: Brocheta de langostinos, Solomillo con foie, Pintxos de autor
Order: The prawn brochette and the solomillo-foie skewer; finish with a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
Tip: Open until 01:00 weekdays, 02:30 weekends; the terrace fills first. No reservations, walk-in only.
A Fuego Negro on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, chef Edorta Lamo's avant-garde pintxo room, runs dark walls, indie music and inventive plates pulled from travel and comic-book ideas.
Signature: Black rabas, Makcobe with chips, Pastrami de Euskaltxerri
Order: The black-squid rabas and the Kobe-beef miniburger 'makcobe' with chips.
Tip: Closed Mondays. The counter is small; arrive before 21:00 or after 22:30 to skip the wait.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a 28-egg, deep-caramelised tortilla and a gilda built on two anchovies and the double-olive Donostian standard.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla, the double-anchovy gilda; espresso at the counter to finish.
Tip: Tortilla is finished by 14:30 most days; arrive before then. Cash-friendly; the counter is small and stand-only.
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs traditional Basque counter cooking with a coal brasa at the back.
Signature: Callos y morros, Brasa de carne, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list, the chargrill meat plates from the brasa at the back.
Tip: Pintxos at the front bar, table service in the back room. The brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a classic counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with the house Txakoli pours and a fast-moving crowd.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno de changurro, Carrillera
Order: The grilled foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab; a glass of house Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in only; counter standing room. Open until midnight daily, weekends from 11:00.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread, plus a tight list of plancha pintxos.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
Tip: Stand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00 to 16:00 and 18:30 to 23:30.
