Basque€€€parte-vieja
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso
Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Modern Basque€€€gros
Galerna Jan Edan in San Sebastian's Gros, run since 2016 by Jorge Asenjo and Rebeca Barainca, cooks a short modern-Basque tasting menu in a 30-cover room.
Signature: Tasting menu, Bonito de Bermeo, Game-season hare
Order: The bonito de Bermeo when the line boats land; in autumn the game-season tasting around hare and pigeon.
Tip: Two services, lunch and dinner, both menu-only. Book a fortnight ahead in season; the dining room is small and full.
Basque-latin American€€gros
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and a counter.
Signature: Quesadilla de morcilla, Cochinita pibil taco, Pisco sour
Order: The quesadilla de morcilla and the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour to drink.
Tip: The bar is walk-in; tables need a reservation through the website. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00 onwards.
Modern Basque€€€gros
Casa 887 in San Sebastian's Gros runs a Basque-fusion kitchen with Asian inflection in a stone-and-wood room, with both a la carte and a 65-euro tasting menu.
Signature: Steak tartare, Carabineros, Asian-leaning Basque tasting
Order: The steak tartare and the carabineros if they're on the carte; the tasting if you're in for the night.
Tip: Book through OpenTable; the room is intimate and sells out on weekends.
Modern Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian opened in 1999 from chefs trained at Lasarte and El Bulli, cooking made-to-order modern.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Risotto de Idiazabal
Order: The carrillera de ternera braised in red wine; the foie a la plancha with apple compote.
Tip: No display counter; read the blackboard. Queue early before 13:00 or after 21:00, the bar gets four deep at peak.
Modern Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos with bold Basque flavours, no counter display, just a tight list of plates.
Signature: Risotto de Idiazabal, Carrillera al vino tinto, Costilla de Basatxerri
Order: The Idiazabal risotto with puntalette pasta; the Basatxerri pork ribs with ras el hanout.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Cash and card both. Stand outside if the bar is full; food comes out fast.