The 19th-century Belle Epoque downtown around Plaza Gipuzkoa and Boulevard Zumardia, with the Mercado San Martin, the Maria Cristina hotel and the Bretxa market on its eastern edge.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a 28-egg, deep-caramelised tortilla and a gilda built on two anchovies.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla, the double-anchovy gilda; espresso at the counter to finish.
Tip: Tortilla is finished by 14:30 most days; arrive before then. Cash-friendly; the counter is small and stand-only.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Cafe con leche, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
Tip: Breakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.
Bataplán Disco on Paseo de la Concha in San Sebastian is the city's defining nightclub since 1979, with seventies decor, a beachfront terrace.
Tip: Doors Thursday 00:30-07:00, Friday and Saturday 01:00; closed Sunday through Wednesday. The terrace runs Easter to October; sea-side tables fill first.
Club Komplot on Calle Pedro Egaña in San Sebastian is the Reyes Catolicos area's Latin-leaning disco, programming reggaeton, salsa and bachata Friday through.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday 00:00-07:00; closed Monday through Thursday. The room fills after 02:00 once the Reyes Catolicos crawl thins out.
The Blind Pig on Calle San Bartolome in San Sebastian is Chef Paulo Airaudo's 2021 speakeasy off Amelia, with bartender Marco Ferreri behind a discreet.
Tip: Message the venue on WhatsApp ahead for the access code and arrival time; walk-ins occasionally accepted if space. The Negroni list is the headline pour.
Alkimia Cocktail Bar on Calle San Bartolome in San Sebastian is a 1920s Chicago-style speakeasy one block from La Concha, entry by emailed access code.
Tip: Write ahead through alkimiacocktailbar.com for the access code and your arrival slot. Closed Monday and Tuesday; weekends fill quickly.
Dry San Sebastian in the Hotel Maria Cristina is Javier de las Muelas's classic-cocktail room in the 1912 Belle Epoque hotel, with the city's only proper.
Tip: Open daily 10:30-00:30, to 02:00 Friday and Saturday. The afternoon-tea hour overlaps with the cocktail service; smart casual at the door.
Pub Drop on Calle Reyes Catolicos in San Sebastian is the cathedral-facing craft-beer pub with 19 taps and a Friday late-close to 04:00, anchoring the Centro.
Tip: About half the 19 taps pour local Basque beers; Friday closes at 04:00. The front patio across from Buen Pastor cathedral is the easiest seat before midnight.
Bar Udaberri on Calle Larramendi in San Sebastian is the 1930s Centro retro bar one block from Reyes Catolicos, alternative-music programmed with weekend DJ.
Tip: Open from 07:00-02:30 on weekends; Sunday opens at 08:30. The vintage interior survives unrenovated; the tostas at the counter feed the late drinkers.
Convent Garden on Calle Manterola in San Sebastian is the converted 1905 to 2015 convent of the Sisters Maria Reparadoras, now a four-space late-night venue.
Tip: The retractable patio roof opens on warm nights; the crypt stages live music and DJ sessions. Part of A Room in the City hostel; the crowd skews younger.