The 19th-century Belle Epoque downtown around Plaza Gipuzkoa and Boulevard Zumardia, with the Mercado San Martin, the Maria Cristina hotel and the Bretxa market on its eastern edge.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a 28-egg, deep-caramelised tortilla and a gilda built on two anchovies and the double-olive Donostian standard.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla, the double-anchovy gilda; espresso at the counter to finish.
Tip: Tortilla is finished by 14:30 most days; arrive before then. Cash-friendly; the counter is small and stand-only.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy Donostian gilda.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter of working-day pintxos and tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Cafe con leche, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
Tip: Breakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.