Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
Tip: Stand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Basque Anchovy Bar€€parte-vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa de Pescaderia, Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.
Tip: Walk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.
Seafood€parte-vieja
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked one thing since 1967: mussels by the dozen, in five sauces, served standing at the bar.
Signature: Mejillones a la vinagreta, Patatas bravas, Mejillones al vapor
Order: A dozen mussels a la vinagreta and a dozen al vapor; bravas to share; cana of Estrella.
Tip: Standing only, no tables. Cash-friendly. Closed Wednesdays Booking recommended for weekends.
Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now run by the third generation of the Martinez.
Signature: Pintxos de marisco, Brocheta de gambas, Pulpo a la plancha
Order: A pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus, the prawn brochette.
Tip: Counter is busy from 13:00 and 21:00; weekends and August are extremely crowded. No reservations.
Basque Pintxos€€parte-vieja
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits across from the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
Signature: Bacalao al pil pil, Pintxo de tortilla, Brocheta
Order: The bacalao al pil pil pintxo from the counter; the tortilla pintxo by the slice.
Tip: Front terrace fills first; the church-step view is the standing-room reward. Open daily.
Basque Pintxos€€gros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, is the award-winning miniature-cuisine counter where Juan Mari Arzak is a regular.
Signature: Txalupa, Itxaso, Udaberri
Order: The Txalupa with prawn-mushroom gratin; the Itxaso monkfish with seafood cream.
Tip: Walk in only at the counter; small street terrace. The kitchen rotates new pintxos through the year while keeping the prize-winners on the daily list.