Mordi e Vai in Rome's Mercato di Testaccio is Sergio Esposito's market-counter sandwich stall, with the slow-braised allesso di scottona (beef shoulder) sandwich the unmissable order.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
Address: Mercato di Testaccio, Box 15, Via Aldo Manuzio, 00153 Roma, Rome
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the city's specialist suppli counter, with the classic al telefono and 11 modern versions (cacio e pepe, mortadella, amatriciana).
Try: Suppli al telefono and modern variations
Tip: Open 12:00 to 22:00; closed Monday. Suppli cost 3 euros each; the cacio e pepe is the lead order.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake pocket-of-pizza-bianca stuffed with Roman braises in 2008, with the pollo alla cacciatora the classic.
Try: Trapizzino, pizza-pocket of pizza bianca
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to midnight. Trapizzini cost 5 euros each; the pollo alla cacciatora is the lead order.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, with the 19:00 fryer batch the freshest of the day.
Try: Suppli, fiori di zucca, fritti
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00 to 22:00. Standing room. The fritti misti costs 8 euros by weight.
Gabriele Bonci's Pizzarium near the Vatican in Rome is the pizza al taglio counter that re-wrote how the city does slices in 2003, with toppings that rotate every two hours.
Try: Pizza al taglio, suppli
Tip: Slices are sold by weight; expect 5-7 euros per slice. Open 11:00 to 22:00 daily; standing room only.
Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome's Centro Storico is the 1972-Roscioli-family bakery counter with the pizza bianca by the kilo, eaten standing on the alley outside since 1819.
Try: Pizza bianca, pizza rossa, maritozzo
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 07:00 to 19:30. Pizza bianca costs 16 euros per kilo; ask for 200g for one person.
Il Bocconcino in Rome's Celio district near the Colosseum is the porchetta and fritti counter with the Ariccian-pork sandwich, plus suppli and Roman fritti misti for under 10 euros.
Try: Porchetta sandwich, Roman fritti
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 24:00. The lunch porchetta sandwich is 6 euros; book back-room tables for groups.
