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Street foodTestaccio
Mordi e Vai in Rome's Mercato di Testaccio is Sergio Esposito's market-counter sandwich stall, with the slow-braised allesso di scottona (beef shoulder).
TryRoman braised-meat sandwich
TipClosed Sunday all day. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
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Street foodCentro Storico
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the city's specialist suppli counter, with the classic al telefono and 11 modern versions (cacio e.
TrySuppli al telefono and modern variations
TipOpen 12:00-22:00; closed Monday. Suppli cost 3 euros each; the cacio e pepe is the lead order.
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Street foodTrastevere
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake pocket-of-pizza-bianca stuffed with Roman braises in 2008, with the pollo alla.
TryTrapizzino, pizza-pocket of pizza bianca
TipOpen daily 12:00 to midnight. Trapizzini cost 5 euros each; the pollo alla cacciatora is the lead order.
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Street foodTrastevereCash only
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, with the 19:00 fryer batch.
TrySuppli, fiori di zucca, fritti
TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00. Standing room. The fritti misti costs 8 euros by weight.
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Street foodPrati
Gabriele Bonci's Pizzarium near the Vatican in Rome is the pizza al taglio counter that re-wrote how the city does slices in 2003, with toppings that rotate.
TryPizza al taglio, suppli
TipSlices are sold by weight; expect 5-7 euros per slice. Open 11:00-22:00 daily; standing room only.
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Street foodCentro Storico
Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome's Centro Storico is the 1972-Roscioli-family bakery counter with the pizza bianca by the kilo, eaten standing on the alley.
TryPizza bianca, pizza rossa, maritozzo
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:00-19:30. Pizza bianca costs 16 euros per kilo; ask for 200g for one person.
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Street foodCelio
Il Bocconcino in Rome's Celio district near the Colosseum is the porchetta and fritti counter with the Ariccian-pork sandwich, plus suppli and Roman fritti.
TryPorchetta sandwich, Roman fritti
TipOpen daily 12:00-24:00. The lunch porchetta sandwich is 6 euros; book back-room tables for groups.
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Street foodTrastevere
Da Cesare al Casaletto's takeaway counter in Rome's western Trastevere edge sells the famous fried cacio e pepe cup and polpette sandwiches to take.
TryCacio e pepe-fried-cup, polpette sandwiches
TipLunch takeaway only; closed Wednesday. The fried cacio e pepe cup is 4 euros; take to the park.
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Street foodEsquilino
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient-Roman crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella.
TryPinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
TipClosed Sat and Sun. The pinsa costs 4-6 euros; the lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00. Cash and card.