Italian€€centro-storico
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
Tip: Closed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.
Neapolitan Trattoria€€vomero
Trattoria Malinconico in Naples' Vomero is a no-frills neighborhood institution with daily-changing pasta, genovese, and ragu napoletano on Sundays.
Order: Genovese, ragu napoletano on Sunday, frittata di maccheroni.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cash preferred. Carafe wine; the room fills nightly with locals so arrive at opening or expect a wait.
Neapolitan Trattoria€€toledo
Osteria della Mattonella in Naples' Toledo quarter runs the home-style Neapolitan carte with daily pasta specials, polpette napoletane and the genovese.
Order: Genovese pasta, polpette napoletane, pasta e fagioli.
Tip: Closed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a week ahead for weekends; the genovese runs all-day.
Neapolitan Trattoria, Seafood€€chiaia
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and spaghetti alle vongole anchoring.
Order: Tubettoni do treddeta (house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 and 19:30-23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Neapolitan Pizza, Fine Pizza€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining counter, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing.
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Tip: Book on the website three weeks ahead. Tasting runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Neapolitan Trattoria, Working-class€quartieri-spagnoli
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch.
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
Tip: No bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.