Neapolitan deli, contemporary€€vomero
Salumeria Upnea on Vomero in Naples is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta from the kitchen behind the counter.
Order: The salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Neapolitan trattoria, pizza€€chiaia
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas and the canonical pizza margherita.
Order: Pagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Neapolitan pizza€€toledo
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. The queen's thank-you letter hangs in the dining room.
Order: Pizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Neapolitan pizza€€centro-storico
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city counters since 1935.
Order: Margherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
Neapolitan pizza€€chiaia
Veridico in Naples' Vomero area runs a top-30 Italian pizza counter on the 50 Top list, with a 60-hour fermentation dough and a vegetable-led pizza carte alongside the classic margherita.
Order: Pizza con fiori di zucca, margherita with mozzarella di bufala, marinara.
Tip: Book a week ahead on the website for weekends. Sunday-only specials use seasonal Campanian vegetables.
Neapolitan trattoria, family€centro-storico
Ristorante Aeroporto in Naples' Capodichino district runs an old-school family carte of pasta and seafood, with the Sunday ragu and the linguine alle vongole anchoring the daily list.
Order: Ragu napoletano, linguine alle vongole, polpette in the family carte.
Tip: Closed Monday. Lunch service is calmer; the Sunday queue can be intense from 12:30 onward.