Neapolitan Deli, Contemporary€€centro-storico
Salumeria Upnea in Naples' Centro Storico is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta.
Order: The salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open daily 12:00-23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Neapolitan Trattoria, Pizza€€chiaia
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas.
Order: Pagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Neapolitan Pizza€€toledo
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. Priced at €€.
Order: Pizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Neapolitan Pizza€€centro-storico
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city.
Order: Margherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
Neapolitan Pizza€€chiaia
Veridico in Naples' Vomero area runs a top-30 Italian pizza counter on the 50 Top list, with a 60-hour fermentation dough and a vegetable-led pizza carte.
Order: Pizza con fiori di zucca, margherita with mozzarella di bufala, marinara.
Tip: Book a week ahead on the website for weekends. Sunday-only specials use seasonal Campanian vegetables.
Italian€€centro-storico
La Locanda Gesu Vecchio on Via Paladino in Naples' Spaccanapoli is Vittorio Fortunato's Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria (opened 2019), with pasta e patate.
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, genovese, mezzanelli alla scarpariello in the daily carte.
Tip: Closed Monday. Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-15:30 and 19:00-23:00 in two seatings (19:00, 21:30). Book ahead even for lunch.