Bakery€toledoMon-Sat 09:00-20:00Walk-in onlyChocolate, cioccolata calda, foresta
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata.
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Foresta chocolate log
Bakery€toledoDaily 07:00-20:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella riccia and frolla
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€vomeroDaily 07:00-21:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella riccia and frolla, babà, pastiera
Pasticceria Bellavia in Naples' Vomero has run a Campanian-Sicilian carte since 1925, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the standout daily.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-21:00 on Via Luca Giordano. Counter only; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€vomeroDaily 06:30-22:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella, babà, mignon pastries
Bellavia in Vomero on Via Luca Giordano is the long-running neighbourhood pasticceria and bar, with the sfogliatella riccia, the babà bagnati and the small.
Tip: Open daily from 06:30; the sfogliatella riccia and the babà are the lead-orders. The bar runs a busy morning coffee crowd.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€centro-storicoDaily 07:00-21:00Walk-in onlyBabà au rhum, sfogliatella
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has poured the babà au rhum since 1905, the rum-soaked yeast cake at every Sunday lunch table.
Tip: Babà runs 3 euros at the counter; the takeaway boxes start at 12 euros for a half-dozen.
Worth the queue: Babà au rhum
Bakery€vomeroDaily 06:30-21:30Walk-in onlyTaralli, sfogliatella, pasticcini
Leopoldo's Vomero branch on Via Scarlatti pours the same taralli sugna and pepper as the Casavatore mother shop, plus the daily sfogliatella and the babà run.
Tip: Open daily 06:30-21:30. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo; sfogliatella runs 2 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe