Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (Vomero branch too) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the local order across two generations.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open Tue-Sun 07:00 to 21:00. Sfogliatella riccia sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Address: Via San Pasquale a Chiaia 21, 80121 Napoli, Naples
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry brand founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with city-centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper taralli and the modern sfogliatella.
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata calda the winter ritual.
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Foresta chocolate log
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Scaturchio's Vomero branch carries the same 1905 family carte as the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore mother shop, with the ministeriale and the babà au rhum the standout buys.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:30. The Vomero terrace seating is the calmest in the chain.
Worth the queue: Ministeriale
Poppella's Vomero branch carries the same fiocco di neve from the Sanita mother shop, with the family expanding to three branches across town since the 2014 cult-hit launch.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00 at the Vomero branch. Fiocco di neve runs 1 euro 50; bakery boxes go for 12 euros.
Worth the queue: Fiocco di neve
Scaturchio in Naples' Piazza San Domenico Maggiore has poured the babà au rhum since 1905, the rum-soaked yeast cake at every Sunday lunch table across the city centre.
Tip: Babà runs 3 euros at the counter; the takeaway boxes start at 12 euros for a half-dozen.
Worth the queue: Babà au rhum
