$$$$North IndianOld Delhi
Moti Mahal in Daryaganj, Old Delhi, is where Punjabi refugees from Peshawar made butter chicken famous after Partition; the room still serves it daily.
OrderButter chicken with a butter garlic naan, plus a plate of tandoori chicken.
TipAsk for a courtyard table, where live music plays on some evenings, and order breads to share across the table.
$$$$KashmiriOld Delhi
Chor Bizarre on Asaf Ali Road in Delhi serves Kashmiri wazwan in a thieves-market room of antique tables and 1950s Hindi songs, near Delhi Gate.
OrderThe wazwan, or a plate of mutton yakhni with haaq and rice.
TipReserve ahead for dinner and order the full wazwan for the table; the kitchen also runs Kashmiri specials such as aloo bukhara korma.
$$$$PunjabiSunder Nagar
Gulati is one of the Punjabi dining rooms of Pandara Road Market in Delhi, open until midnight for butter chicken, murgh malai tikka and handi gosht.
OrderButter chicken and murgh malai tikka, with dal makhani and garlic naan.
TipThe kitchen runs until midnight, so it suits a late dinner after India Gate; expect a wait at peak weekend hours.
$$$$PunjabiConnaught Place
Kake Da Hotel is a dhaba-style Punjabi kitchen in Connaught Place, New Delhi, tucked into a market lane and best known for its mutton saag gosht.
OrderThe saag gosht, mutton simmered into a mustard-greens curry.
TipSeating is tight across two small floors, so expect a short wait at lunch; the mutton dishes are the reason to come.
$$$$North IndianChanakyapuri
Bukhara has served the same North-West Frontier menu at ITC Maurya in Delhi since 1978: tandoor kebabs, table-wide naan and a black dal simmered for 24 hours.
OrderDal Bukhara, the black dal simmered close to 24 hours, with a tandoori kebab and naan.
TipEating with your hands is part of the ritual, and the naan arrives as wide as the table; book ahead for dinner.
$$$$PunjabiConnaught Place
Chef Amninder Sandhu's Kikli in Connaught Place, Delhi, cooks village Punjabi food, including dal slow-cooked overnight on a cow-dung-fired hara.
OrderThe hara dal with toonhi roti, plus kathal takatak and a glass of lassi.
TipDal, chana and winter saag cook overnight on the hara in the courtyard; the kadahi section covers Lahori dishes such as kadahi chicken.
$$$$PunjabiSunder Nagar
Pindi has served Punjabi food on Pandara Road in Delhi since 1948, founded by a family with roots in Rawalpindi and known for its kebabs and Pindi chana.
OrderA mutton seekh kebab and the Pindi chana, with butter chicken and tandoori roti for the table.
TipThe name comes from Rawalpindi, where the founders came from before Partition; order the namesake Pindi chana alongside the kebabs.
$$$$PunjabiWest Delhi
Dhaba - A Punjabi Theme serves Punjabi food in Rajouri Garden, west Delhi, in a room built as a village dhaba kitchen with a truck parked in front.
OrderThe sarewan ki roti, a dhaba bread stuffed with spiced onion, with butter chicken.
TipThe room recreates a village dhaba, with rope-strung wooden furniture, pickle jars on the wall and waiters in Punjabi dress.
$$$$KashmiriNizamuddin
Gulfam Kashmiri Wazwan has served Kashmiri meat dishes near Nizamuddin, in Delhi, since 1987, with rogan josh and tabakh maaz as the draw here.
OrderThe tabakh maaz followed by rogan josh with steamed rice.
TipThere is indoor and outdoor seating as well as takeaway; start with the tabakh maaz, then rogan josh with steamed rice.
$$$$KeralaIna
Appus Hotel has served Kerala food by INA Market in Delhi since 1998: appam, idiyappam, puttu and kappa at breakfast, then biryani and fish dishes.
OrderAppam and idiyappam with the chicken roast, plus a Kerala fish fry served with gravy.
TipIt is a few paces from the INA metro exit on the market side; there is more seating up on the first floor.
$$$$BengaliGreater Kailash
Maa Tara has cooked home-style Bengali food in Chittaranjan Park, Delhi since 1994, known citywide for its mustard hilsa and mutton kosha curry.
OrderThe mutton kosha with steamed rice, followed by mishti doi.
TipThere's no reservation line; expect a short queue at the door on weekend evenings and Durga Puja season.
$$$$RajasthaniConnaught Place
Rajasthali serves an unlimited Rajasthani thali from a small dining room in Connaught Place, Delhi, built around dal baati churma and gatte ki sabzi.
OrderThe unlimited Rajasthani thali with gatte ki sabzi and dal baati churma.
TipCome hungry and skip breakfast; the thali is refilled on request until you wave the server off.
$$$$North IndianSunder Nagar
Dhilli at The Oberoi in Delhi, mentored by Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia, builds its whole menu around the multicultural cooking of the capital.
TipLunch runs only Friday to Sunday; weekday visits are dinner from 19:00, so book the evening slot midweek.
$$$$North IndianConnaught Place
Delhi Darbar Dhaba cooks butter chicken, chicken biryani and dal makhani at a Gole Market restaurant near Connaught Place, Delhi, open until about 01:00.
OrderButter chicken with a side of dal makhani and tandoori roti.
TipLook for Shop 10 in Baird Line Market; the kitchen runs from 11:00 to about 01:00, so it covers a late dinner after Connaught Place.
$$$$KeralaConnaught Place
Kerala House Samridhi Canteen on Jantar Mantar Road in Delhi is the Kerala guest house canteen, open to walk-ins for breakfast, a matta rice lunch and dinner.
OrderThe lunch meal of matta rice, sambar, thoran and parippu, with fish curry or dry fish on the side.
TipBuy a coupon at the counter before you order, and reach about 15 minutes before lunch opens at 12:30 to beat the rush.
$$$$BengaliConnaught Place
Banga Bhawan Canteen on Hailey Road in Delhi is West Bengal's guest house kitchen, run by the caterer Bijoli Grill and open to the public for Bengali meals.
OrderKosha mangsho with luchi, then mishti doi to finish.
TipPair the kosha mangsho and luchi with a fish dish such as pabda or ilish; vegetarians get aloo posto, and mishti doi ends the meal.
$$$$IndianConnaught Place
Gurdwara Bangla Sahib in Connaught Place, Delhi, runs a free community langar where anyone can sit on the floor to eat dal, roti and kheer with worshippers.
OrderWhatever the langar is serving: dal, roti and kheer.
TipCover your head at the entrance (scarves are free) and leave a small donation if you can; there is no charge either way.
$$$$IndianGreater Kailash
Govinda's is the restaurant inside the ISKCON temple at East of Kailash in Delhi, cooking sattvik vegetarian food without onion or garlic for a buffet.
OrderThe vegetarian buffet, cooked without onion or garlic.
TipThe food is sattvik prasadam, offered at the temple first; the kitchen cooks without onion, garlic or ginger, from 08:00 to 22:00 daily.
$$$$North IndianOld Delhi
Kake Di Hatti has baked stuffed tandoori naans and dal makhani on Church Mission Road in Old Delhi since 1942, a vegetarian kitchen open until 01:00.
OrderA stuffed paneer naan shared with a bowl of dal makhani.
TipOver 100 naan varieties are listed, in sizes from Nikka and Baby up to the house Kake size; the family dining room is upstairs.
$$$$North IndianPaharganj
Sita Ram Diwan Chand fries chole bhature on Chuna Mandi in Paharganj, Delhi, a standing-room counter where the one plate is the reason to come.
OrderChole bhature with the pickled carrots and green chillies on the side.
TipThe kitchen closes at 17:30, so go for breakfast or lunch; people eat standing at waist-high tables outside.
$$$$North IndianDefence Colony
Moolchand Parantha has fried stuffed parathas by Moolchand metro in Lajpat Nagar, Delhi, since 1975, a mostly takeaway counter with a few tall tables.
OrderAn aloo pyaz paratha, served with a cube of Amul butter, chutney and salad.
TipSeating is a few tall tables beside the counter, so most people take their parathas away; one paratha is a meal for one.
$$$$North IndianHauz Khas
Rajinder Da Dhaba began as a fish fry stall in 1968 and now fronts Safdarjung Enclave Market in Delhi, serving butter chicken and dal makhani from 15:00.
OrderButter chicken with dal makhani and tandoori roti.
TipIt opens at 15:00, not for lunch; there is outdoor seating along the market front, and portions are generous.