Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Montpellier actually eats.

Food tour in Montpellier

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Where to eat well, no fuss

23 places

Le Paresseur

Order Beetroot gnocchi from the seasonal card.

Le Paresseur serves Italian-Sétois comfort cooking under stone vaults on Rue Jules Latreilhe in Montpellier, generous plates from family recipes.

Tôt ou Tard

Order Tapas boards with an organic Languedoc glass.

Tôt ou Tard mixes bistro plates, tapas and organic wines on Place de la Chapelle Neuve in Montpellier, terrace tables under the plane trees.

Chez Boris

Order Onglet à l'échalote, 220 grams, at 24 euros.

Chez Boris is the Montpellier beef house on the Esplanade, serving Fleur d'Aubrac cuts, knife-cut tartares and profiteroles seven days a week.

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Faune

Order The seasonal plat du jour in the museum garden.

Faune runs the kitchen of the MO.CO. museum, casual seasonal plates and drinks in a walled garden that stays open until midnight from Tuesday.

La Maison d'Anna

Order Orecchiette with the day's ragù.

La Maison d'Anna cooks Puglian orecchiette and Bolognese ragù from nonna's recipes on Rue des Trésoriers de France in Montpellier's old town.

La Mamma St Roch

Order The mozzarella bar selection before any pizza.

La Mamma St Roch pairs a mozzarella bar with pizzas and fresh pasta near Montpellier's station quarter, Italian cheeses flown in for the counter.

Ma Première Cantine

Order Soft-boiled œufs à la coque with soldiers.

Ma Première Cantine plays on school-dinner nostalgia on Place Jean Jaurès in Montpellier, serving without a break from 08:30 to midnight daily.

Nabab Kebab

Order The classic kebab plate, halal certified.

Nabab Kebab holds the corner between the Comédie and the station on Rue Maguelone, halal kebabs served until 01:00 for six nights of the week.

Bol Bun & Bubble

Order A bo bun bowl with grilled pork and nem, herbs piled high

Bol Bun & Bubble ladles bo bun bowls and bubble tea on Rue d'Alger in Montpellier, a quick Vietnamese counter between the Comédie and the station.

Where to stay in Montpellier

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L'Oignon Givré

Order The all-you-can-eat salad buffet.

L'Oignon Givré has fed Montpellier students an all-you-can-eat salad buffet on Rue de l'Université for over two decades, weekday lunches only.

Mélissa Coquillages

Order A tielle with a plate of Bouzigues oysters.

Mélissa Coquillages shucks Bouzigues oysters and warms tielles at its Halles Laissac stall in Montpellier, seafood platters eaten at the market counters.

Café de la Panacée

Order The 16 euro lunch menu on the patio.

Café de la Panacée feeds the MO.CO. Panacée art centre from a shaded courtyard, with weekday lunch menus and evening tapas running until 00:30.

Le Pré Vert

Order The seasonal lunch plate built from that morning's market run

Le Pré Vert cooks homely lunches and weekend brunches on Rue Sainte-Anne, a quiet room at the Arc de Triomphe end of the Montpellier old town.

La Canourgue

Order Whatever the Pourcel kitchen posts as the day's plate.

La Canourgue lets Montpellier eat Pourcel cooking casually, bistronomic plates and tapas served daily on the Richer de Belleval square itself.

Les Canons

Order The 11 to 18 euro market lunch with a natural glass.

Les Canons cooks market lunches beside a 150-bottle natural wine wall near Saint-Pierre cathedral in Montpellier, most vegetables organic and local.

Soulenq

Order Wood-fired vegetables with a cave bottle.

Soulenq feeds Montpellier's Euromédecine quarter from a converted nursery, wood-fired plates on a terrace beside its own 400-reference wine shop.