The places in Montpellier the guidebooks miss.
The places in Montpellier the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
11 places
Order Ten pork, cabbage and mushroom dumplings, folded that morning.
Li's Raviolis Chinois is a family dumpling counter on Rue de l'Université, folding its own wrappers and selling ten for €6.60 at lunch only.
Order A bag of the Maragogype or the Kenya, ground to your method at the counter.
La Brûlerie du Courreau has roasted coffee on the Faubourg du Courreau since 1979, the city's oldest roastery and still a shop rather than a cafe.
Order A dozen Bouzigues oysters with a glass of Picpoul de Pinet at the counter.
Mélissa Coquillages shucks Étang de Thau oysters inside Halles Laissac, a market stall with a standing counter rather than a seafood restaurant.
Private tour · 2 - 4 hours
Discover Montpellier on a private walking tour with a local guide, exploring medieval streets, elegant squares, historic landmarks, lively neighborhoods, and hidden corners.
Day trip · 8 hours
Spend a day, discovering the fascinating setting and history of Celles, before plunging into the red earth of the canyon des ruffes and tasting delicious local wines.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Enjoy seeing Montpellier with a local guide. See the city center, and try local wines and specialties, including fresh seafood and regional cheeses, fougasse, pastries...
Order Whichever poppy seed or cheesecake bake is out that morning.
Ikonka bakes Central European cakes in Figuerolles, an outlier in a city of French patisserie and open seven days on the Faubourg du Courreau.
Order A loaf of the pain de campagne, sour and open-crumbed from natural levain.
Boulangerie Daveloza bakes entirely on natural levain from Rue du Grand Saint-Jean, organic flours, butter-free regional pastries and a cult local following.
Order Whichever Le Détour keg is pouring at the shared taproom, from the wheat to the smoked porter.
Le Détour brews on Rue du Pasteur Jean Cadier in Montpellier and pours through Le Réservoir, the taproom it shares with two other city brewers.
Order Whatever the Hérault plain has in season, bought straight from the grower.
Marché de Celleneuve fills the old village square west of Montpellier every Wednesday morning, a producer market that almost no visitor ever reaches.
Order A morning viennoiserie eaten on the walk up towards the botanical garden.
Aux Délices du Faubourg is the working bakery of the Boutonnet student quarter, open from 07:00 and running a split Saturday around the lunch break.
Order A bag of single-origin beans ground to your brewing method.
Cafés Bibal roasts and sells from a boutique on Rue Jacques Coeur, a coffee merchant in a city that mostly reads roasteries as coffee shops.
Order A Languedoc bottle chosen off the caviste shelf, opened at your table.
Soulenq runs a Mediterranean kitchen and a wine shop from the same Euromédecine address, so anything on the caviste shelves can be opened at the table.
Order A shellfish platter of Thau oysters, clams and prawns with bread and butter.
L'Écailler des Beaux-Arts sells shellfish over ice on Rue de la Cavalerie, a neighbourhood counter north of the boulevards rather than a seafood restaurant.
Nothing matches.
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