DC half-smoke counter$u-street
Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining half-smoke, served at 1213 U Street NW under the famous mural for sixty years.
Signature: Chili half-smoke, Chili cheese fries
Order: The chili half-smoke with mustard, onions and chili; the dish that built the room.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; line moves fastest at the take-away counter on the right.
American farm-to-table$$foggy-bottom
Founding Farmers DC in Washington DC is the Pennsylvania Avenue farmer-owned cooperative dining room near the IMF and World Bank, an all-day American kitchen with a strict farm-source list.
Signature: Fried chicken and waffles, Pot roast meatloaf
Order: The fried chicken and waffles with apple butter; the menu's most-ordered single plate.
Tip: Reservations book out for brunch a week ahead; weekday breakfast and the bar take walk-ins.
Soul-American$$u-street
Ben's Next Door in Washington DC is the sit-down sister of Ben's Chili Bowl at 1211 U Street, a soul-American kitchen with a cocktail list and the half-smoke from the original menu.
Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken, Half-smoke platter
Order: The buttermilk fried chicken with mac and collards; the room's most-ordered single dish.
Tip: The bar runs late on weekends and is the better seat for a single diner; brunch fills up by 11:30.
American pizza and burgers$$penn-quarter
Matchbox in Washington DC is the original Penn Quarter pizza-and-burger room on H Street since 2003, a wood-fired oven kitchen on Chinatown's western edge with a deep cocktail list.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Mini burger trio
Order: The mini burger trio with thin onion rings; the room's most-ordered appetiser.
Tip: The upstairs dining room is quieter than the busy ground-floor bar; ask for it at booking.
Italian pizza$$dupont-circle
Pizzeria Paradiso in Washington DC is Ruth Gresser's Dupont Circle wood-fired pizza room on P Street since 1991, a thin-crust Italian pizzeria with a Birreria beer cellar downstairs.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Atomica with salami and pepper
Order: The Atomica with hot salami, black olives and red pepper flakes; the menu since 1991.
Tip: The Birreria downstairs runs over 150 beers; ask for the Italian craft tasting flight at the bar.
Ethiopian$$shaw
Etete in Washington DC is the canonical Little Ethiopia dining room on 9th Street since 2004, with doro wat, vegetarian combos and the spongy injera served on a shared round platter.
Signature: Doro wat, Vegetarian combination
Order: The doro wat with hard-boiled egg, eaten by hand from the shared injera platter.
Tip: Ask for the vegetarian combination if there are non-meat eaters; it is the more visually photographed plate.
Ethiopian$$shaw
Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant in Washington DC is the U Street Ethiopian dining room since 1997, the older sister to Etete and a U Street institution with sidewalk seating and live music.
Signature: Kitfo, Tibs
Order: The kitfo (Ethiopian raw beef tartare) leb leb or rare with mitmita spice; the room's deepest cut.
Tip: Live Ethiopian music plays Friday and Saturday from 21:00; the back booth is the quietest table.
Italian pizza$$georgetown
Pizzeria Paradiso Georgetown in Washington DC is the M Street wood-fired pizza sister on the canal, the Georgetown branch of Ruth Gresser's Dupont Circle original with the same wood oven.
Signature: Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, Atomica
Order: The Genovese with pesto, potatoes and green beans; the Genoese signature of the menu.
Tip: The patio runs from April to October and overlooks the C&O Canal towpath; book a sunset seat.
Nose-to-tail American$$logan-circle
The Pig in Washington DC is the 14th Street nose-to-tail dining room from EatWell DC, with a menu built end-to-end on heritage pork from local Mid-Atlantic farms and a porchetta plate.
Signature: Pork belly sliders, House charcuterie board
Order: The pork belly sliders on house buns; the room's most-ordered appetiser since opening.
Tip: Brunch on weekends runs a deep boozy menu; the bar counter takes walk-ins on weekdays.
Southeast Asian (Thai, Vietnamese)$$logan-circle
Doi Moi in Washington DC is the 14th Street Southeast Asian dining room from the Eat Group, a Thai-Vietnamese-Lao kitchen with an outdoor patio and a deep low-intervention wine list.
Signature: Khao soi, Whole fish in tamarind
Order: The khao soi northern Thai curry noodles; the menu's most-ordered single dish.
Tip: The patio runs from April to October and is the better seat at sunset; the bar takes walk-ups.
Philly hoagies$dupont-circle
Bub and Pop's in Washington DC is the M Street Philadelphia-style hoagie shop in Dupont Circle from Jonathan and Arlene Taub, with sandwich rolls baked in-house every morning.
Signature: Italian hoagie, Reuben
Order: The Italian hoagie with hot peppers; the menu's most-ordered sandwich.
Tip: Lunch line stacks up at 12:30; order ahead via the website to skip the wait. Cash and card both accepted.
Laotian$$columbia-heights
Thip Khao in Washington DC is Seng Luangrath's Columbia Heights Laotian dining room on 14th Street, a casual room with a separate spicy-jungle-menu insert and BYO wine policy.
Signature: Laotian beef larb, Sticky rice
Order: The crispy rice salad (nem khao) with cured pork; the menu's most-ordered single dish.
Tip: Ask for the off-menu jungle insert by name; the larb on it is far hotter than the standard menu.
Tuscan$$logan-circle
Ghibellina in Washington DC is the 14th Street Tuscan dining room next to Le Diplomate, a casual high-ceiling Italian room with pinsa Roman flatbread and the bistecca cut for two.
Signature: Pinsa Roman flatbread, Bistecca alla fiorentina
Order: The pinsa Roman-style flatbread with prosciutto and stracciatella; the room's most-ordered appetiser.
Tip: The patio runs to October; the back room is quieter than the front bar on Saturday nights.
Italian Neapolitan pizza$$brookland
Menomale in Washington DC is Ettore Rusciano's Brookland Naples-style pizzeria on 12th Street NE, with VPN-certified Neapolitan pies and a dough proofed for 36 hours.
Signature: Margherita verace, Diavola
Order: The Diavola with spicy salami and DOP buffalo mozzarella; the kitchen's editorial standout.
Tip: The patio runs through October; cash, card, and same-day delivery are all accepted.
Afghan$$adams-morgan
Lapis in Washington DC is Shamim Popal's Adams Morgan Afghan dining room on Columbia Road, a family-run kitchen with mantu dumplings and the Kabuli pulao national dish.
Signature: Mantu dumplings, Kabuli pulao
Order: The mantu dumplings under tomato sauce and yoghurt; the menu's editorial signature.
Tip: The brunch buffet on Saturday and Sunday is the city's best Afghan-food deal at under $25 a head.
Southern soul$$downtown
Sweet Home Cafe in Washington DC is the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture cafeteria on Constitution Avenue, a museum-led Black-Southern food survey.
Signature: Pan-roasted catfish, Sweet potato pie
Order: The pan-roasted catfish with cornbread and collards; the menu's most-ordered Southern plate.
Tip: Museum admission is free but requires a timed-entry pass; eat after 14:00 to skip the queue.
American diner$$logan-circle
Ted's Bulletin in Washington DC is the 14th Street art-deco American diner from the Matchbox group, an all-day breakfast room with the in-house adult pop-tart line as the signature.
Signature: Homemade pop-tarts, All-day breakfast
Order: The homemade strawberry pop-tart with milkshake; the all-day breakfast headliner.
Tip: Weekend brunch fills up by 11:00; the original Barracks Row Ted's takes walk-ins on weekday mornings.
Modern Indian$$h-street
Daru in Washington DC is Suresh Sundas's H Street modern Indian dining room on Maryland Avenue NE, a hand-built kitchen with regional Indian street food and a deep gin-and-bitters bar.
Signature: Goan crab toast, Lamb biryani
Order: The Goan crab toast on milk bread; the menu's editorial standout opener.
Tip: The chef's counter is the best seat for the kitchen show; the patio runs to October.
Oaxacan Mexican$$$shaw
Espita Mezcaleria in Washington DC is the Shaw Oaxacan dining room on 9th Street, with a 100-bottle mezcal cellar, a four-mole tasting and a chef-led tortilla program.
Signature: Mole negro with chicken, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken thigh and the house tortillas; the kitchen's signature pair.
Tip: The mezcal flight is the wine equivalent; ask for the smoke-forward set if you like a Scotch.
Modern American small plates$$$logan-circle
Rooster and Owl in Washington DC is Yuan and Carey Tang's 14th Street Michelin-mentioned modern American dining room, a four-course prix fixe with a strong vegetable-forward focus.
Signature: Pork rind chicharrones, Crispy chicken bites
Order: The pork rind chicharrones with chili lime; the most photographed dish on the menu.
Tip: The four-course prix fixe is $79 at dinner; the wine pairing leans natural and is the value upgrade.