Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Washington DC actually eats.

Where to eat well, no fuss

Ben's Chili Bowl ★ 4.6

American$u-street

Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining half-smoke, served at 1213 U Street NW.

Signature: Chili half-smoke, Chili cheese fries

Order: The chili half-smoke with mustard, onions and chili; the dish that built the room.

Tip: Cash and card both accepted; line moves fastest at the take-away counter on the right.

Founding Farmers DC ★ 4.2

American$$foggy-bottom

Founding Farmers DC in Washington DC is the Pennsylvania Avenue farmer-owned cooperative dining room near the IMF and World Bank, an all-day American kitchen.

Signature: Fried chicken and waffles, Pot roast meatloaf

Order: The fried chicken and waffles with apple butter; the menu's most-ordered single plate.

Tip: Reservations book out for brunch a week ahead; weekday breakfast and the bar take walk-ins.

Ben's Next Door ★ 4.2

American$$u-street

Ben's Next Door in Washington DC is the sit-down sister of Ben's Chili Bowl at 1211 U Street, a soul-American kitchen with a cocktail list and the half-smoke.

Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken, Half-smoke platter

Order: The buttermilk fried chicken with mac and collards; the room's most-ordered single dish.

Tip: The bar runs late on weekends and is the better seat for a single diner; brunch fills up by 11:30.

Matchbox ★ 4.0

Pizzeria$$penn-quarter

Matchbox in Washington DC is the original Penn Quarter pizza-and-burger room on H Street since 2003, a wood-fired oven kitchen on Chinatown's western edge.

Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Mini burger trio

Order: The mini burger trio with thin onion rings; the room's most-ordered appetiser.

Tip: The upstairs dining room is quieter than the busy ground-floor bar; ask for it at booking.

Pizzeria Paradiso ★ 4.2

Italian Pizza$$dupont-circle

Pizzeria Paradiso in Washington DC is Ruth Gresser's Dupont Circle wood-fired pizza room on P Street since 1991, a thin-crust Italian pizzeria.

Signature: Margherita pizza, Atomica with salami and pepper

Order: The Atomica with hot salami, black olives and red pepper flakes; the menu since 1991.

Tip: The Birreria downstairs runs over 150 beers; ask for the Italian craft tasting flight at the bar.

Chercher Ethiopian Restaurant ★ 4.5

Ethiopian$$shaw

Chercher Ethiopian Restaurant in Washington DC is the second-floor 9th Street rowhouse Ethiopian dining room in Shaw's Little Ethiopia, a no-reservations.

Signature: Shiro chickpea stew, Vegetarian combination platter

Order: The shiro chickpea stew with extra injera; the menu's editorial signature.

Tip: No reservations; the staircase line moves fastest at 17:30 on weeknights and crowds outside the door by 19:00. Cash and card both accepted.

Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant ★ 4.4

Ethiopian$$shaw

Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant in Washington DC is the U Street Ethiopian dining room since 1997, the older sister to Etete and a U Street institution.

Signature: Kitfo, Tibs

Order: The kitfo (Ethiopian raw beef tartare) leb leb or rare with mitmita spice; the room's deepest cut.

Tip: Live Ethiopian music plays Friday and Saturday from 21:00; the back booth is the quietest table.

Pizzeria Paradiso Georgetown ★ 4.1

Italian Pizza$$georgetown

Pizzeria Paradiso Georgetown in Washington DC is the M Street wood-fired pizza sister on the canal, the Georgetown branch of Ruth Gresser's Dupont Circle.

Signature: Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, Atomica

Order: The Genovese with pesto, potatoes and green beans; the Genoese signature of the menu.

Tip: The patio runs from April to October and overlooks the C&O Canal towpath; book a sunset seat.

Le Sel ★ 4.4

Modern French Bistro$$$logan-circle

Le Sel in Washington DC is the modern French bistro inside the Kimpton Banneker Hotel near Logan Circle on 16th Street, a Parisian-leaning room with a recent.

Signature: Cassoulet, Steak frites with bearnaise

Order: The cassoulet that won the authentic-category world award; the menu's editorial anchor.

Tip: Breakfast service from 07:00 daily is the hidden value; dinner books out a week ahead on Resy.

Doi Moi ★ 4.3

Thai$$logan-circle

Doi Moi in Washington DC is the 14th Street Southeast Asian dining room from the Eat Group, a Thai-Vietnamese-Lao kitchen with an outdoor patio and a deep.

Signature: Khao soi, Whole fish in tamarind

Order: The khao soi northern Thai curry noodles; the menu's most-ordered single dish.

Tip: The patio runs from April to October and is the better seat at sunset; the bar takes walk-ups.

Bub and Pop's ★ 4.3

Sandwich$dupont-circle

Bub and Pop's in Washington DC is the M Street Philadelphia-style hoagie shop in Dupont Circle from Jonathan and Arlene Taub, with sandwich rolls baked.

Signature: Italian hoagie, Reuben

Order: The Italian hoagie with hot peppers; the menu's most-ordered sandwich.

Tip: Lunch line stacks up at 12:30; order ahead via the website to skip the wait. Cash and card both accepted.

Thip Khao ★ 4.5

Laotian$$columbia-heights

Thip Khao in Washington DC is Seng Luangrath's Columbia Heights Laotian dining room on 14th Street, a casual room with a separate spicy-jungle-menu insert.

Signature: Laotian beef larb, Sticky rice

Order: The crispy rice salad (nem khao) with cured pork; the menu's most-ordered single dish.

Tip: Ask for the off-menu jungle insert by name; the larb on it is far hotter than the standard menu.

Sette Osteria ★ 4.2

Italian$$logan-circle

Sette Osteria on 14th Street in Washington DC is the Logan Circle Italian sister of the Dupont original on the corner of 14th and Q, with an open wood-fired.

Signature: House-made pasta, Wood-fired pizza

Order: The bucatini cacio e pepe with cracked black pepper; one of the kitchen's house-made pasta anchors.

Tip: Saturday brunch from 10:00 takes walk-ins faster than dinner; the patio runs through October on the corner.

Menomale ★ 4.4

Pizzeria$$brookland

Menomale in Washington DC is Ettore Rusciano's Brookland Naples-style pizzeria on 12th Street NE, with VPN-certified Neapolitan pies and a dough proofed.

Signature: Margherita verace, Diavola

Order: The Diavola with spicy salami and DOP buffalo mozzarella; the kitchen's editorial standout.

Tip: The patio runs through October; cash, card, and same-day delivery are all accepted.

Lapis ★ 4.4

Afghan$$adams-morgan

Lapis in Washington DC is Shamim Popal's Adams Morgan Afghan dining room on Columbia Road, a family-run kitchen with mantu dumplings and the Kabuli pulao.

Signature: Mantu dumplings, Kabuli pulao

Order: The mantu dumplings under tomato sauce and yoghurt; the menu's editorial signature.

Tip: The brunch buffet on Saturday and Sunday is the city's best Afghan-food deal at under $25 a head.

Sweet Home Cafe ★ 4.3

Soul food$$downtown

Sweet Home Cafe in Washington DC is the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture cafeteria on Constitution Avenue.

Signature: Pan-roasted catfish, Sweet potato pie

Order: The pan-roasted catfish with cornbread and collards; the menu's most-ordered Southern plate.

Tip: Museum admission is free but requires a timed-entry pass; eat after 14:00 to skip the queue.

Ted's Bulletin ★ 4.0

American Diner$$logan-circle

Ted's Bulletin in Washington DC is the 14th Street art-deco American diner from the Matchbox group, an all-day breakfast room with the in-house adult.

Signature: Homemade pop-tarts, All-day breakfast

Order: The homemade strawberry pop-tart with milkshake; the all-day breakfast headliner.

Tip: Weekend brunch fills up by 11:00; the original Barracks Row Ted's takes walk-ins on weekday mornings.

Daru ★ 4.5

Modern Indian$$h-street

Daru in Washington DC is Suresh Sundas's H Street modern Indian dining room on Maryland Avenue NE, a hand-built kitchen with regional Indian street food.

Signature: Goan crab toast, Lamb biryani

Order: The Goan crab toast on milk bread; the menu's editorial standout opener.

Tip: The chef's counter is the best seat for the kitchen show; the patio runs to October.

Mezcalero Cocina Mexicana ★ 4.3

Mexican$$columbia-heights

Alfredo Solis's Mezcalero on 14th Street Columbia Heights Washington DC, the authentic Mexico City taco and mezcal kitchen with handmade tortillas and brunch.

Signature: Al pastor tacos, Mole enchiladas, Pescado a la talla

Order: Al pastor tacos with a mezcal flight; the brunch chilaquiles on Sundays.

Tip: Sister to El Sol and the closed Anafre across the street; reservations via OpenTable for Friday-Sunday dinner.

Rooster and Owl ★ 4.5

New American$$$logan-circle

Rooster and Owl in Washington DC is Yuan and Carey Tang's 14th Street Michelin-mentioned modern American dining room, a four-course prix fixe with a strong.

Signature: Pork rind chicharrones, Crispy chicken bites

Order: The pork rind chicharrones with chili lime; the most photographed dish on the menu.

Tip: The four-course prix fixe is $79 at dinner; the wine pairing leans natural and is the value upgrade.

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