Daru in Washington DC is Suresh Sundas's H Street modern Indian dining room on Maryland Avenue NE, a hand-built kitchen with regional Indian street food and a deep gin-and-bitters bar.
Signature dishes: Goan crab toast, Lamb biryani
Must order: The Goan crab toast on milk bread; the menu's editorial standout opener.
Tip: The chef's counter is the best seat for the kitchen show; the patio runs to October.
Address: 1451 Maryland Ave NE, Washington, DC 20002, Washington DC
Espita Mezcaleria in Washington DC is the Shaw Oaxacan dining room on 9th Street, with a 100-bottle mezcal cellar, a four-mole tasting and a chef-led tortilla program.
Signature: Mole negro with chicken, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken thigh and the house tortillas; the kitchen's signature pair.
Tip: The mezcal flight is the wine equivalent; ask for the smoke-forward set if you like a Scotch.
Rooster and Owl in Washington DC is Yuan and Carey Tang's 14th Street Michelin-mentioned modern American dining room, a four-course prix fixe with a strong vegetable-forward focus.
Signature: Pork rind chicharrones, Crispy chicken bites
Order: The pork rind chicharrones with chili lime; the most photographed dish on the menu.
Tip: The four-course prix fixe is $79 at dinner; the wine pairing leans natural and is the value upgrade.
Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining half-smoke, served at 1213 U Street NW under the famous mural for sixty years.
Signature: Chili half-smoke, Chili cheese fries
Order: The chili half-smoke with mustard, onions and chili; the dish that built the room.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; line moves fastest at the take-away counter on the right.
Founding Farmers DC in Washington DC is the Pennsylvania Avenue farmer-owned cooperative dining room near the IMF and World Bank, an all-day American kitchen with a strict farm-source list.
Signature: Fried chicken and waffles, Pot roast meatloaf
Order: The fried chicken and waffles with apple butter; the menu's most-ordered single plate.
Tip: Reservations book out for brunch a week ahead; weekday breakfast and the bar take walk-ins.
Ben's Next Door in Washington DC is the sit-down sister of Ben's Chili Bowl at 1211 U Street, a soul-American kitchen with a cocktail list and the half-smoke from the original menu.
Signature: Buttermilk fried chicken, Half-smoke platter
Order: The buttermilk fried chicken with mac and collards; the room's most-ordered single dish.
Tip: The bar runs late on weekends and is the better seat for a single diner; brunch fills up by 11:30.
Matchbox in Washington DC is the original Penn Quarter pizza-and-burger room on H Street since 2003, a wood-fired oven kitchen on Chinatown's western edge with a deep cocktail list.
Signature: Wood-fired pizza, Mini burger trio
Order: The mini burger trio with thin onion rings; the room's most-ordered appetiser.
Tip: The upstairs dining room is quieter than the busy ground-floor bar; ask for it at booking.
