Lapis in Washington DC is Shamim Popal's Adams Morgan Afghan dining room on Columbia Road, a family-run kitchen with mantu dumplings and the Kabuli pulao national dish.
Signature dishes: Mantu dumplings, Kabuli pulao
Must order: The mantu dumplings under tomato sauce and yoghurt; the menu's editorial signature.
Tip: The brunch buffet on Saturday and Sunday is the city's best Afghan-food deal at under $25 a head.
Address: 1847 Columbia Rd NW, Washington, DC 20009, Washington DC
Sweet Home Cafe in Washington DC is the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture cafeteria on Constitution Avenue, a museum-led Black-Southern food survey.
Signature: Pan-roasted catfish, Sweet potato pie
Order: The pan-roasted catfish with cornbread and collards; the menu's most-ordered Southern plate.
Tip: Museum admission is free but requires a timed-entry pass; eat after 14:00 to skip the queue.
Ted's Bulletin in Washington DC is the 14th Street art-deco American diner from the Matchbox group, an all-day breakfast room with the in-house adult pop-tart line as the signature.
Signature: Homemade pop-tarts, All-day breakfast
Order: The homemade strawberry pop-tart with milkshake; the all-day breakfast headliner.
Tip: Weekend brunch fills up by 11:00; the original Barracks Row Ted's takes walk-ins on weekday mornings.
Daru in Washington DC is Suresh Sundas's H Street modern Indian dining room on Maryland Avenue NE, a hand-built kitchen with regional Indian street food and a deep gin-and-bitters bar.
Signature: Goan crab toast, Lamb biryani
Order: The Goan crab toast on milk bread; the menu's editorial standout opener.
Tip: The chef's counter is the best seat for the kitchen show; the patio runs to October.
Espita Mezcaleria in Washington DC is the Shaw Oaxacan dining room on 9th Street, with a 100-bottle mezcal cellar, a four-mole tasting and a chef-led tortilla program.
Signature: Mole negro with chicken, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken thigh and the house tortillas; the kitchen's signature pair.
Tip: The mezcal flight is the wine equivalent; ask for the smoke-forward set if you like a Scotch.
Rooster and Owl in Washington DC is Yuan and Carey Tang's 14th Street Michelin-mentioned modern American dining room, a four-course prix fixe with a strong vegetable-forward focus.
Signature: Pork rind chicharrones, Crispy chicken bites
Order: The pork rind chicharrones with chili lime; the most photographed dish on the menu.
Tip: The four-course prix fixe is $79 at dinner; the wine pairing leans natural and is the value upgrade.
Ben's Chili Bowl in Washington DC is the 1958 U Street counter from Ben and Virginia Ali, the city's defining half-smoke, served at 1213 U Street NW under the famous mural for sixty years.
Signature: Chili half-smoke, Chili cheese fries
Order: The chili half-smoke with mustard, onions and chili; the dish that built the room.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; line moves fastest at the take-away counter on the right.
