Laotian$$columbia-heights
Thip Khao in Washington DC is Seng Luangrath's Columbia Heights Laotian dining room on 14th Street, a casual room with a separate spicy-jungle-menu insert and BYO wine policy.
Signature: Laotian beef larb, Sticky rice
Order: The crispy rice salad (nem khao) with cured pork; the menu's most-ordered single dish.
Tip: Ask for the off-menu jungle insert by name; the larb on it is far hotter than the standard menu.
Tuscan$$logan-circle
Ghibellina in Washington DC is the 14th Street Tuscan dining room next to Le Diplomate, a casual high-ceiling Italian room with pinsa Roman flatbread and the bistecca cut for two.
Signature: Pinsa Roman flatbread, Bistecca alla fiorentina
Order: The pinsa Roman-style flatbread with prosciutto and stracciatella; the room's most-ordered appetiser.
Tip: The patio runs to October; the back room is quieter than the front bar on Saturday nights.
Italian Neapolitan pizza$$brookland
Menomale in Washington DC is Ettore Rusciano's Brookland Naples-style pizzeria on 12th Street NE, with VPN-certified Neapolitan pies and a dough proofed for 36 hours.
Signature: Margherita verace, Diavola
Order: The Diavola with spicy salami and DOP buffalo mozzarella; the kitchen's editorial standout.
Tip: The patio runs through October; cash, card, and same-day delivery are all accepted.
Afghan$$adams-morgan
Lapis in Washington DC is Shamim Popal's Adams Morgan Afghan dining room on Columbia Road, a family-run kitchen with mantu dumplings and the Kabuli pulao national dish.
Signature: Mantu dumplings, Kabuli pulao
Order: The mantu dumplings under tomato sauce and yoghurt; the menu's editorial signature.
Tip: The brunch buffet on Saturday and Sunday is the city's best Afghan-food deal at under $25 a head.
Southern soul$$downtown
Sweet Home Cafe in Washington DC is the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture cafeteria on Constitution Avenue, a museum-led Black-Southern food survey.
Signature: Pan-roasted catfish, Sweet potato pie
Order: The pan-roasted catfish with cornbread and collards; the menu's most-ordered Southern plate.
Tip: Museum admission is free but requires a timed-entry pass; eat after 14:00 to skip the queue.
American diner$$logan-circle
Ted's Bulletin in Washington DC is the 14th Street art-deco American diner from the Matchbox group, an all-day breakfast room with the in-house adult pop-tart line as the signature.
Signature: Homemade pop-tarts, All-day breakfast
Order: The homemade strawberry pop-tart with milkshake; the all-day breakfast headliner.
Tip: Weekend brunch fills up by 11:00; the original Barracks Row Ted's takes walk-ins on weekday mornings.