Italian Neapolitan pizza$$brookland
Menomale in Washington DC is Ettore Rusciano's Brookland Naples-style pizzeria on 12th Street NE, with VPN-certified Neapolitan pies and a dough proofed for 36 hours.
Signature: Margherita verace, Diavola
Order: The Diavola with spicy salami and DOP buffalo mozzarella; the kitchen's editorial standout.
Tip: The patio runs through October; cash, card, and same-day delivery are all accepted.
Afghan$$adams-morgan
Lapis in Washington DC is Shamim Popal's Adams Morgan Afghan dining room on Columbia Road, a family-run kitchen with mantu dumplings and the Kabuli pulao national dish.
Signature: Mantu dumplings, Kabuli pulao
Order: The mantu dumplings under tomato sauce and yoghurt; the menu's editorial signature.
Tip: The brunch buffet on Saturday and Sunday is the city's best Afghan-food deal at under $25 a head.
Southern soul$$downtown
Sweet Home Cafe in Washington DC is the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture cafeteria on Constitution Avenue, a museum-led Black-Southern food survey.
Signature: Pan-roasted catfish, Sweet potato pie
Order: The pan-roasted catfish with cornbread and collards; the menu's most-ordered Southern plate.
Tip: Museum admission is free but requires a timed-entry pass; eat after 14:00 to skip the queue.
American diner$$logan-circle
Ted's Bulletin in Washington DC is the 14th Street art-deco American diner from the Matchbox group, an all-day breakfast room with the in-house adult pop-tart line as the signature.
Signature: Homemade pop-tarts, All-day breakfast
Order: The homemade strawberry pop-tart with milkshake; the all-day breakfast headliner.
Tip: Weekend brunch fills up by 11:00; the original Barracks Row Ted's takes walk-ins on weekday mornings.
Modern Indian$$h-street
Daru in Washington DC is Suresh Sundas's H Street modern Indian dining room on Maryland Avenue NE, a hand-built kitchen with regional Indian street food and a deep gin-and-bitters bar.
Signature: Goan crab toast, Lamb biryani
Order: The Goan crab toast on milk bread; the menu's editorial standout opener.
Tip: The chef's counter is the best seat for the kitchen show; the patio runs to October.
Oaxacan Mexican$$$shaw
Espita Mezcaleria in Washington DC is the Shaw Oaxacan dining room on 9th Street, with a 100-bottle mezcal cellar, a four-mole tasting and a chef-led tortilla program.
Signature: Mole negro with chicken, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken thigh and the house tortillas; the kitchen's signature pair.
Tip: The mezcal flight is the wine equivalent; ask for the smoke-forward set if you like a Scotch.