Modern Sevillian Tapas€€el-arenal
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal quarter is the modern-tapas room that runs a quietly inventive menu of risottos, rices and small plates.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: The mushroom risotto and the goat-cheese-and-fig salad; the squid-ink rice on weekends.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat if you arrive without booking.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€santa-cruz
Vineria San Telmo on Paseo de Catalina de Ribera in Seville is the Argentine-owned tapas room beside the Alcazar gardens, the pioneer of the modern-tapas.
Signature: Squid-ink spaghetti, Mollejas, Pluma iberica
Order: The squid-ink spaghetti with seafood and the wood-grilled pluma iberica from the daily blackboard.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:00-24:00. Book the back garden room a week ahead in spring; bar plates run faster on weeknights.
Sevillian Taberna€€el-arenal
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850, the city's archetypal wine-cask room with vermut pulled.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Carrillada en salsa, Vermut from the barrel
Order: The solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Booking recommended for weekends.
Sevillian Taberna€€santa-cruz
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz has hung jamones from the ceiling since 1870, the venerated old-school tabernero that anchors.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced from the leg overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. Order from the standing bar at front for the fastest plates; the wooden tables at back fill from 13:30.
Sevillian Taberna€€el-arenal
Bodeguita Casablanca on Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado in Seville is run by the Casablanca cousins Antonio and Tomas near Puerta de Jerez, lauded.
Signature: Huevos a la flamenca, Carrillada iberica, Tartar de atun
Order: The huevos a la flamenca and the carrillada iberica con salsa de oloroso.
Tip: Open Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 and 20:15-00:30, Sat 12:30-17:30, closed Sunday. The bar is faster; the back dining room takes reservations.
Spanish€€€santa-cruz
Casa Robles on Calle Alvarez Quintero in Seville is the Robles family's flagship since 1954, with wood-panelled dining rooms beside the Cathedral.
Signature: Pork fillet in oloroso sauce, Roasted lamb shank, Salmorejo cordobes
Order: The pork fillet in oak-aged oloroso sauce, then the slow-roasted lamb shank with potatoes a lo pobre.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-17:00 and 20:00-01:00. The terrace fills fast on Cathedral-tour days; book the upstairs dining room for quieter Sunday lunch.