Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: The tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa, with a copa of fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670 and run by the De Rueda family since 1858, with the cuenta still.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with a glass of fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is a reservation room with full plates.
Andalusian Seafood€€€€centro
Canabota on Calle Orfila in Seville earned its Michelin star in the 2022 guide and runs an open-grill counter where the day's whole fish from Cadiz.
Signature: Grilled fish of the day, Sea urchin, Lengua de mar
Order: The tasting menu built around the day's catch from the Cadiz lonja.
Tip: Two sittings nightly Tue-Sat, 14:00 and 21:00. Book three weeks ahead by phone or web. La Barra next door is the walk-in option without reservation.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€alameda
Espacio Eslava on Calle Eslava in Seville's San Lorenzo is the modern-tapas room since 1988, with the egg-on-mushroom-cake and the honey-glazed costilla.
Signature: Huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus, Costilla con miel, Cigarro de pringa
Order: The huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus and the slow-cooked costilla con miel de cana sirope.
Tip: Walk-in only; queue at 12:30 for lunch or 20:00 for dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Tables come up at the back; bar plates come faster.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€centro
Bar Sal Gorda on Calle Alcaiceria de la Loza in Seville is the Cabrera Fernandez brothers' creative-tapas counter, with anemone cones and ox-tail donuts.
Signature: Pork cheek tacos, Anemone and plankton cone, Ox tail donut
Order: The anemone and plankton cone, then the slow-cooked ox-tail donut on the daily blackboard.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat from 12:30; closed Sunday. Walk-in only; tables for two come up fastest at the bar after 14:30.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€el-arenal
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal quarter is the modern-tapas room that runs a quietly inventive menu of risottos, rices and small plates.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: The mushroom risotto and the goat-cheese-and-fig salad; the squid-ink rice on weekends.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat if you arrive without booking.
