Also: Casual Dining in San Sebastian
Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where San Sebastián actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where San Sebastián actually eats.
Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos, Menu del dia
Order: A plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.
Tip: Open daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.
Casa Senra on Calle San Francisco in San Sebastian's Gros runs a working-day menu del dia and a traditional Basque pintxo counter, the neighbourhood lunch.
Signature: Menu del dia, Pintxos tradicionales, Carrillera
Order: The menu del dia at lunch; the carrillera al vino tinto if it's on the carte.
Tip: Lunch served 13:00-15:30; menu del dia 14 to 18 euros. Closed Sunday.
Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Brocheta
Order: A tortilla pintxo from the counter; sit down for the steak or seared fish in the back.
Tip: Counter pintxos are pay-as-you-go; back room takes reservations through their site. Closed Tuesdays.
Bar Astelena on Calle Inigo in San Sebastian's Old Town, in business since 1960, runs a tight counter of pintxos plus a small dining room behind for sit-down.
Signature: Foie con compota, Carrillera, Pintxos del dia
Order: The foie con compota de manzana; the carrillera braised in red wine.
Tip: Smaller crowd than the Calle 31 de Agosto rooms; lunch sit-down requires booking by phone.
Sirimiri Gastroleku on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a contemporary pintxo bar with fresh fish ceviches, slow-cooked carrillera and a small.
Signature: Ceviche, Carrillera, Pato
Order: The seasonal fish ceviche; the slow-cooked beef cheek.
Tip: Sit at the counter to watch the kitchen; the back dining room is a sit-down service.
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and pisco cocktails.
Signature: Quesadilla de morcilla, Cochinita pibil taco, Ceviche
Order: The quesadilla de morcilla; the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour.
Tip: Walk in at the bar or book a table through topasukalderia.com. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00.
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits opposite the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
Signature: Bacalao al pil pil, Brocheta, Pintxo de tortilla
Order: The bacalao al pil pil pintxo; the tortilla by the slice; a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
Tip: Terrace seating across from the basilica fills first. Open daily; standing room only.
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs a Basque pintxo counter and a back-room.
Signature: Brasa de carne, Callos y morros, Pintxos tradicionales
Order: The callos y morros if it's on the day's list; the brasa-grilled chuleton from the back.
Tip: Brasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00. Stand at the front bar for pintxos.
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos and a church-step.
Signature: Brocheta de langostinos, Solomillo con foie, Pintxos de autor
Order: The langostino brochette; the solomillo with foie; a Txakoli on the terrace.
Tip: No reservations, walk in only. The terrace is the social hour; pull up at 19:30 to beat the queue.
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos off a tight blackboard menu, no counter display, the Idiazabal-cheese risotto.
Signature: Risotto de Idiazabal, Carrillera al vino tinto, Costilla de Basatxerri
Order: The risotto de Idiazabal con puntalette; the carrillera al vino tinto; the Basatxerri pork ribs.
Tip: Walk in only, closed Sundays. Stand outside if the bar is full; orders come out fast.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a brisk pintxos counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with a Txakoli pour.
Signature: Foie a la plancha, Txipiron relleno, Carrillera
Order: The foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab.
Tip: Counter standing only. Open daily until midnight; weekends from 11:00.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread.
Signature: Brocheta de gambas, Chipiron a la plancha, Moruno de carne
Order: The brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Stand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
Signature: Anchoa a la jardinera, Anchoa con crema de centollo, Anchoa al ajo
Order: Anchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
Tip: Counter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
Signature: Carrillera de ternera al vino tinto, Foie a la plancha, Pulpo a la brasa
Order: The carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
Tip: Queue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Gilda, Bacalao rebozado
Order: A wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
Tip: Tortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, sets out one of the most decorated miniature-cuisine pintxo counters in the city.
Signature: Txalupa, Itxaso, Tortilla de anchoas
Order: The Txalupa gratin of prawn and mushroom; a wedge of the tortilla de anchoas; a glass of Txakoli.
Tip: Walk in at the counter; small street terrace fills first. Closed Wednesdays.
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now in its third generation with a long counter.
Signature: Pintxos de marisco, Brocheta de gambas, Pulpo a la plancha
Order: Any pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus.
Tip: Busy from 13:00 and 21:00. No reservations. Weekends and August are extremely crowded.
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Cafe con leche, Pintxos clasicos
Order: The morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
Tip: Breakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.