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BasqueParte Vieja
Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu.
OrderA plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.
TipOpen daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.
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BasqueGros
Casa Senra on Calle San Francisco in San Sebastian's Gros runs a working-day menu del dia and a traditional Basque pintxo counter, the neighbourhood lunch.
OrderThe menu del dia at lunch; the carrillera al vino tinto if it's on the carte.
TipLunch served 13:00-15:30; menu del dia 14 to 18 euros. Closed Sunday.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bartolo on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a sit-down dining room serving.
OrderA tortilla pintxo from the counter; sit down for the steak or seared fish in the back.
TipCounter pintxos are pay-as-you-go; back room takes reservations through their site. Closed Tuesdays.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Astelena on Calle Inigo in San Sebastian's Old Town, in business since 1960, runs a tight counter of pintxos plus a small dining room behind for sit-down.
OrderThe foie con compota de manzana; the carrillera braised in red wine.
TipSmaller crowd than the Calle 31 de Agosto rooms; lunch sit-down requires booking by phone.
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Modern BasqueParte Vieja
Sirimiri Gastroleku on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a contemporary pintxo bar with fresh fish ceviches, slow-cooked carrillera and a small.
OrderThe seasonal fish ceviche; the slow-cooked beef cheek.
TipSit at the counter to watch the kitchen; the back dining room is a sit-down service.
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Basque-latin AmericanGros
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and pisco cocktails.
OrderThe quesadilla de morcilla; the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour.
TipWalk in at the bar or book a table through topasukalderia.com. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town, since 1948, sits opposite the Santa Maria del Coro basilica with the bacalao al pil pil pintxo.
OrderThe bacalao al pil pil pintxo; the tortilla by the slice; a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
TipTerrace seating across from the basilica fills first. Open daily; standing room only.
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Basque Grill and PintxosParte Vieja
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian, rebranded Fermin Calbeton under Grupo Garrancho in 2022, runs a Basque pintxo counter and a back-room.
OrderThe callos y morros if it's on the day's list; the brasa-grilled chuleton from the back.
TipBrasa lights at 12:30 and 20:00. Stand at the front bar for pintxos.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos and a church-step.
OrderThe langostino brochette; the solomillo with foie; a Txakoli on the terrace.
TipNo reservations, walk in only. The terrace is the social hour; pull up at 19:30 to beat the queue.
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Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos off a tight blackboard menu, no counter display, the Idiazabal-cheese risotto.
OrderThe risotto de Idiazabal con puntalette; the carrillera al vino tinto; the Basatxerri pork ribs.
TipWalk in only, closed Sundays. Stand outside if the bar is full; orders come out fast.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a brisk pintxos counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with a Txakoli pour.
OrderThe foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab.
TipCounter standing only. Open daily until midnight; weekends from 11:00.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread.
OrderThe brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
TipStand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
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Basque Anchovy BarParte Vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
TipCounter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
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Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
OrderThe carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
TipQueue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
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BasqueParte Vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter.
OrderThe autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
TipCounter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
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Basque PintxosCentro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
OrderA wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
TipTortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
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Basque PintxosGros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, sets out one of the most decorated miniature-cuisine pintxo counters in the city.
OrderThe Txalupa gratin of prawn and mushroom; a wedge of the tortilla de anchoas; a glass of Txakoli.
TipWalk in at the counter; small street terrace fills first. Closed Wednesdays.
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Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now in its third generation with a long counter.
OrderAny pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus.
TipBusy from 13:00 and 21:00. No reservations. Weekends and August are extremely crowded.
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CafeCentro
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter.
OrderThe morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
TipBreakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.