A batter of pork loin wrapped around jamón serrano, rolled into a fat baton, breadcrumbed and deep-fried until the crust shatters. Served hot in cross-sections with a wedge of lemon or a spoonful of mayonnaise.

The flamenquín belongs to Córdoba province rather than to Andalusia as a whole, and its ancestry is peasant economy: a thin sheet of cheap pork stretched around a strip of expensive cured ham so a little jamón went a long way. The name is disputed and no origin story survives that stands up, which is why cordobés kitchens argue about it happily and at length. What is not disputed is the technique, which every taberna in the city runs to the same shape: pound the loin flat, lay the jamón along it, roll tight, crumb twice, fry in deep oil. Modern rooms play with the filling, and Taberna La Viuda's cheese version has become a house signature.

4 editor picks for Flamenquín in Córdoba, ranked by editorial score. All Córdoba signature dishes · Flamenquín across every city.