Also: Casual Dining in Krakow
Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Kraków actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Kraków actually eats.
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska in Kraków's Old Town runs a 30-strong pierogi carte: ruskie, meat, duck, spinach, sweet cherry. Located in Stare Miasto.
Signature: Pierogi ruskie, Pierogi with duck
Order: A mixed plate of pierogi ruskie and pierogi with duck; a glass of kompot to wash it down.
Tip: Pierogi come boiled or pan-fried. Pan-fried takes 5 extra minutes; ask for half-and-half.
Przystanek Pierogarnia in Kraków's Old Town is the no-nonsense pierogi counter locals queue at: 20 fillings, plates from 18 zl, open from 11:00 to late.
Signature: Pierogi z mięsem, Pierogi z kapustą i grzybami
Order: Pierogi z mięsem (minced meat) and the cabbage-and-mushroom version. Sour cream on the side.
Tip: Cash and card. Counter seats only; ten stools and a window-bar.
Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: laminated menu, queue-and-pay-first, full meals for 15 to 25 zl.
Signature: Żurek, Kotlet schabowy
Order: Żurek (sour rye soup), kotlet schabowy with mash, kompot. The whole meal lands under 25 zl.
Tip: Bring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers; queues at lunch.
Milkbar Tomasza on Kraków's Świętego Tomasza updates the milk-bar form: same prices and naleśniki, but table service and a younger crowd. Priced at $.
Signature: Naleśniki with cottage cheese, Pierogi
Order: Naleśniki with cottage cheese and strawberry jam; the żurek soup is the runner-up.
Tip: Closed Monday. Breakfast all day; the brunch plate at 25 zl is the steal.
Morskie Oko in Kraków cooks Tatra-highlander Polish in a wooden-room dining hall with live folk music. Oscypek, kwaśnica cabbage soup, slow lamb.
Signature: Oscypek with cranberry, Highlander lamb stew
Order: Grilled oscypek with cranberry and the kwaśnica sour-cabbage soup with smoked pork ribs.
Tip: Live highlander folk music in the dining room most evenings; check ahead for the schedule.
Chimera on Kraków's Świętej Anny is a salad-bar counter near the Jagiellonian University in a covered medieval courtyard. Located in Stare Miasto.
Signature: Build-your-own salad plate, Stuffed cabbage rolls
Order: A four-salad plate with the cabbage rolls; the kompot is the drink.
Tip: Cash and card. Daily 10:00-22:00; the covered courtyard is the main dining area.
Polakowski in Kraków's Kazimierz is the all-day Polish canteen for the Old Synagogue end: pierogi, bigos, schabowy, gołąbki, served counter-style from 10:00.
Signature: Pierogi, Bigos
Order: A mixed pierogi plate and a bowl of bigos; the rye bread is included.
Tip: All-day Polish canteen on Miodowa in Kazimierz; counter service, no bookings.
Veganic on Karmelicka in Kraków cooks Polish classics fully plant-based: pierogi ruskie with cashew cream, beetroot tartare, vegan żurek soup.
Signature: Vegan pierogi ruskie, Beetroot tartare
Order: Vegan pierogi ruskie and the beetroot tartare. The vegan żurek runs in winter.
Tip: Closed Monday. The weekend brunch service is the easy table to take.
Smakołyki on Kraków's Straszewskiego is the cheap-and-honest student-canteen Polish home-cooking room: schabowy, pierogi, potato pancakes, full plate.
Signature: Schabowy with potatoes, Pierogi
Order: Kotlet schabowy with mashed potato and sauerkraut; pierogi ruskie as a starter.
Tip: Cash only. Closes 22:00 weekdays; until 17:00 Sunday. No bookings.
Stara Zajezdnia in Kraków's Kazimierz is an enormous on-site brewery and Polish-grill hall in a former tram depot. Kitchen leans brewery and polish grill.
Signature: House lager, Pork knuckle
Order: Pork knuckle for two with house pilsner; the long beer-hall tables and the courtyard in summer.
Tip: Big groups walk in; reserve a side table if you want a quiet booth. Open daily 12:00-23:00.
The Plac Nowy zapiekanka window in Kraków's Kazimierz, Endzior at the round former kosher slaughterhouse, has poured open-face baguettes since 1989.
Signature: Zapiekanka with mushroom and cheese, Zapiekanka with ham
Order: Classic mushroom-and-cheese zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce. The half-metre version is shareable.
Tip: Cash only. Six windows ring the rotunda; Endzior is the consensus pick. Open until 03:00 weekends.
Marchewka z Groszkiem in Kraków's Kazimierz is the homely Polish bistro on the Mostowa footbridge: pierogi, gołąbki, beetroot soup with uszka.
Signature: Pierogi with goose, Beetroot soup with uszka
Order: Goose pierogi and a bowl of beetroot soup with little uszka mushroom dumplings.
Tip: The Mostowa branch sits on the footbridge with river views. Open daily 12:00-22:00.
Pod Baranem near the Wawel side of Kraków's Planty cooks classic Polish since 1997. Chef-founder Jan Baran's menu runs duck, veal cheeks, traditional soups.
Signature: Duck with apple, Veal cheeks
Order: Duck with apple and red cabbage; veal cheeks in mushroom sauce.
Tip: Reservation only in the evening; lunch easier as walk-in. Close to Wawel Castle.
Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game.
Signature: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.