The old Jewish quarter, now the city's most layered food map: Plac Nowy zapiekanka windows, Polish-Jewish revival kitchens, natural wine bars and the synagogue restaurants.
Bottiglieria 1881 in Kraków's Kazimierz holds Poland's only two Michelin stars. Przemysław Klima cooks Polish ingredients on a long tasting menu only.
Signature: Tasting menu with Polish-only wine pairing, Autumn game course
Order: The full tasting menu with the Polish-wine pairing from a 700-bottle list.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead for Friday or Saturday; midweek is easier.
Karakter in Kraków's Kazimierz is the loud, low-lit neo-bistro with chef Daniel Myśliwiec. Open kitchen, offal-heavy modern carte, small Polish growers.
Signature: Beef tartare with bone marrow, Charcoal-grilled lamb
Order: The tartare for the table, then whatever is on the grill list that night.
Tip: Counter walk-ins often available at 18:00. The dining-room tables take booking only.
Hamsa in Kraków's Jewish quarter cooks Tel Aviv-style Israeli: hummus, shakshuka, sabich, fresh pita off the saj. The terrace looks onto the Old Synagogue square.
Signature: Hummus with slow-cooked lamb, Shakshuka
Order: Hummus with slow-cooked lamb and fresh pita; arrive before the dinner queue at 19:30.
Tip: Book the terrace for sunset. The same group runs Hamsa Tel Aviv next door for a fuller dinner menu.
Klezmer-Hois in Kraków's Kazimierz is the Polish-Jewish kitchen in the 16th-century Great Mikveh on Szeroka. Gefilte fish, cholent on the carte; klezmer concerts.
Signature: Gefilte fish, Cholent
Order: Gefilte fish, the chicken liver pâté and a glass of Slivovitz to finish.
Tip: Book ahead for evenings with klezmer concerts. Check the concert calendar in advance.
Starka in Kraków's Kazimierz cooks classic Polish in a townhouse cellar with a courtyard garden, and pours its house-aged Starka vodka in 8 to 25-year-old vintages alongside.
Signature: Duck with baked apple, Aged Starka vodka flight
Order: Duck with baked apple and the 10-year Starka vodka flight; courtyard table in summer.
Tip: Book the courtyard for sunset; the cellar room is the better seating in winter.
Miodova in Kraków's Kazimierz on Szeroka cooks contemporary Polish with Jewish-influenced dishes inspired by a 19th-century cookbook. Daily lunch and dinner.
Signature: Goose pierogi, Cholent for two
Order: Goose pierogi to start, then cholent for two with a glass from the Polish-wine list.
Tip: Open daily for lunch and dinner; the terrace runs through summer.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs straight Lyonnais-bistro grammar: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. Small room, chalkboard menu, French wine list.
Signature: Beef tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare and the tarte tatin to share. House red by the carafe.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes. Closed Sunday.
Trezo in Kraków's Kazimierz on Miodowa cooks modern Polish that marries traditional flavours with modern techniques. Casual dining room, cafe-bar attached.
Signature: Dry-aged beef short rib, Beetroot tartare
Order: Dry-aged beef short rib and beetroot tartare to start. A glass of Polish riesling alongside.
Tip: Book ahead for weekend evenings; the cafe-bar side is good for a casual drink.
Polakowski in Kraków's Kazimierz is the all-day Polish canteen for the Old Synagogue end: pierogi, bigos, schabowy, gołąbki, served counter-style from 10:00 to 22:00.
Signature: Pierogi, Bigos
Order: A mixed pierogi plate and a bowl of bigos; the rye bread is included.
Tip: All-day Polish canteen on Miodowa in Kazimierz; counter service, no bookings.
Stara Zajezdnia in Kraków's Kazimierz is an enormous on-site brewery and Polish-grill hall in a former tram depot. Four house beers on tap, full Polish carte until 23:00.
Signature: House lager, Pork knuckle
Order: Pork knuckle for two with house pilsner; the long beer-hall tables and the courtyard in summer.
Tip: Big groups walk in; reserve a side table if you want a quiet booth. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00.
The Plac Nowy zapiekanka window in Kraków's Kazimierz, Endzior at the round former kosher slaughterhouse, has poured open-face baguettes since 1989. Open till 03:00.
Signature: Zapiekanka with mushroom and cheese, Zapiekanka with ham
Order: Classic mushroom-and-cheese zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce. The half-metre version is shareable.
Tip: Cash only. Six windows ring the rotunda; Endzior is the consensus pick. Open until 03:00 weekends.
Marchewka z Groszkiem in Kraków's Kazimierz is the homely Polish bistro on the Mostowa footbridge: pierogi, gołąbki, beetroot soup with uszka, river views in summer.
Signature: Pierogi with goose, Beetroot soup with uszka
Order: Goose pierogi and a bowl of beetroot soup with little uszka mushroom dumplings.
Tip: The Mostowa branch sits on the footbridge with river views. Open daily 12:00 to 22:00.
Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game. Open until 02:00 every night.
Signature: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.
Absynt on Kraków's Miodowa in Kazimierz pours 20 absinthes the traditional drip-and-sugar-cube way in a Belle Epoque room. Live music on Thursdays.
Signature drink: Absinthe drip
Food: Bar snacks
Tip: The traditional absinthe drip with sugar cube is the order; open daily from 10:00 to past midnight.