Brewery and Polish grill€€kazimierz
Stara Zajezdnia in Kraków's Kazimierz is an enormous on-site brewery and Polish-grill hall in a former tram depot. Four house beers on tap, full Polish carte until 23:00.
Signature: House lager, Pork knuckle
Order: Pork knuckle for two with house pilsner; the long beer-hall tables and the courtyard in summer.
Tip: Big groups walk in; reserve a side table if you want a quiet booth. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00.
Zapiekanka€kazimierz
The Plac Nowy zapiekanka window in Kraków's Kazimierz, Endzior at the round former kosher slaughterhouse, has poured open-face baguettes since 1989. Open till 03:00.
Signature: Zapiekanka with mushroom and cheese, Zapiekanka with ham
Order: Classic mushroom-and-cheese zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce. The half-metre version is shareable.
Tip: Cash only. Six windows ring the rotunda; Endzior is the consensus pick. Open until 03:00 weekends.
Polish home cooking€€kazimierz
Marchewka z Groszkiem in Kraków's Kazimierz is the homely Polish bistro on the Mostowa footbridge: pierogi, gołąbki, beetroot soup with uszka, river views in summer.
Signature: Pierogi with goose, Beetroot soup with uszka
Order: Goose pierogi and a bowl of beetroot soup with little uszka mushroom dumplings.
Tip: The Mostowa branch sits on the footbridge with river views. Open daily 12:00 to 22:00.
Traditional Polish€€stare-miasto
Pod Baranem near the Wawel side of Kraków's Planty cooks classic Polish since 1997. Chef-founder Jan Baran's menu runs duck, veal cheeks, traditional soups.
Signature: Duck with apple, Veal cheeks
Order: Duck with apple and red cabbage; veal cheeks in mushroom sauce.
Tip: Reservation only in the evening; lunch easier as walk-in. Close to Wawel Castle.
Vegan kebab€kazimierz
Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game. Open until 02:00 every night.
Signature: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
French bistro€€kazimierz
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.