Stara Zajezdnia in Kraków's Kazimierz is an enormous on-site brewery and Polish-grill hall in a former tram depot. Four house beers on tap, full Polish carte until 23:00.
Signature dishes: House lager, Pork knuckle
Must order: Pork knuckle for two with house pilsner; the long beer-hall tables and the courtyard in summer.
Tip: Big groups walk in; reserve a side table if you want a quiet booth. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00.
Address: ul. Świętego Wawrzyńca 12, 31-060 Kraków
The Plac Nowy zapiekanka window in Kraków's Kazimierz, Endzior at the round former kosher slaughterhouse, has poured open-face baguettes since 1989. Open till 03:00.
Signature: Zapiekanka with mushroom and cheese, Zapiekanka with ham
Order: Classic mushroom-and-cheese zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce. The half-metre version is shareable.
Tip: Cash only. Six windows ring the rotunda; Endzior is the consensus pick. Open until 03:00 weekends.
Marchewka z Groszkiem in Kraków's Kazimierz is the homely Polish bistro on the Mostowa footbridge: pierogi, gołąbki, beetroot soup with uszka, river views in summer.
Signature: Pierogi with goose, Beetroot soup with uszka
Order: Goose pierogi and a bowl of beetroot soup with little uszka mushroom dumplings.
Tip: The Mostowa branch sits on the footbridge with river views. Open daily 12:00 to 22:00.
Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game. Open until 02:00 every night.
Signature: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.
The Plac Nowy zapiekanka window in Kraków's Kazimierz, Endzior at the round former kosher slaughterhouse, has poured open-face baguettes since 1989. Open till 03:00.
Signature: Zapiekanka with mushroom and cheese, Zapiekanka with ham
Order: Classic mushroom-and-cheese zapiekanka with ketchup and garlic sauce. The half-metre version is shareable.
Tip: Cash only. Six windows ring the rotunda; Endzior is the consensus pick. Open until 03:00 weekends.
Marchewka z Groszkiem in Kraków's Kazimierz is the homely Polish bistro on the Mostowa footbridge: pierogi, gołąbki, beetroot soup with uszka, river views in summer.
Signature: Pierogi with goose, Beetroot soup with uszka
Order: Goose pierogi and a bowl of beetroot soup with little uszka mushroom dumplings.
Tip: The Mostowa branch sits on the footbridge with river views. Open daily 12:00 to 22:00.
Pod Baranem near the Wawel side of Kraków's Planty cooks classic Polish since 1997. Chef-founder Jan Baran's menu runs duck, veal cheeks, traditional soups.
Signature: Duck with apple, Veal cheeks
Order: Duck with apple and red cabbage; veal cheeks in mushroom sauce.
Tip: Reservation only in the evening; lunch easier as walk-in. Close to Wawel Castle.
Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game. Open until 02:00 every night.
Signature: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska in Kraków's Old Town runs a 30-strong pierogi carte: ruskie, meat, duck, spinach, sweet cherry. Counter service, queue at lunch.
Signature: Pierogi ruskie, Pierogi with duck
Order: A mixed plate of pierogi ruskie and pierogi with duck; a glass of kompot to wash it down.
Tip: Pierogi come boiled or pan-fried. Pan-fried takes 5 extra minutes; ask for half-and-half.
