Walled medieval centre around Rynek Główny: obwarzanek carts, the Cloth Hall, the Old Town bistros and the densest run of fine dining within the Planty ring.
Pod Aniołami in Kraków sits in a 13th-century cellar on Grodzka with a beech-wood grill at the centre of the room. Kitchen leans traditional polish.
OrderThe beech-smoked lamb shank, and oscypek with cranberry jam to start.
TipAsk for the vaulted-cellar room over the courtyard. Open daily from 13:00.
Wesele in Kraków is the editorial pick for traditional Polish on the Rynek Główny: pierogi, roast duck, żurek, with a terrace pointed at the Cloth Hall.
OrderThe mixed pierogi plate and żurek soured-rye soup served in a bread bowl.
TipReservation recommended for evenings; the cellar room is quieter than the terrace in summer.
Miód i Wino in Kraków sits at the north end of the Old Town with a courtyard under linden trees. The carte is straight Polish bistro: pierogi.
OrderPork knuckle for two with honey beer glaze, with pierogi ruskie to start.
TipThe summer courtyard runs first-come weekdays; book ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner.
Pod Norenami in Kraków runs the city's most editorial vegan kitchen with a pan-Asian menu: ramen, gyoza, banh mi, sushi rolls. Krupnicza is the original room.
OrderThe gyoza and a bowl of the shoyu ramen with king oyster mushroom.
TipCash and card; closes around 22:00. Walk-ins for early dinner, book for prime time.
Szara Gęś on Kraków's Rynek Główny runs a Polish carte in a Cloth Hall-facing dining room. Located in Stare Miasto. Kitchen leans polish-french.
OrderThe roast goose for two with red cabbage and apple, in November during goose season.
TipReservation only on weekends. The Cloth Hall side tables go first; ask when booking.
Fiorentina on Grodzka in Kraków's Old Town is the Tuscan-inspired room with a vaulted red-brick ceiling. Located in Stare Miasto. Priced at $$$.
OrderThe bistecca for two with a Brunello by the bottle, and the gnudi as a starter.
TipThe bistecca needs ordering in advance; closed Sunday. Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.
Filipa 18 in Kraków's Kleparz is the neo-Polish room inside Hotel Indigo. Located in Stare Miasto. Priced at $$$. At ul. Świętego Filipa 18.
OrderWhatever tartare is on, and the duck with smoked plum if it's running.
TipTasting menu Tuesday to Saturday 17:00-22:00. Book a week ahead for weekend dinner.
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska in Kraków's Old Town runs a 30-strong pierogi carte: ruskie, meat, duck, spinach, sweet cherry. Located in Stare Miasto.
OrderA mixed plate of pierogi ruskie and pierogi with duck; a glass of kompot to wash it down.
TipPierogi come boiled or pan-fried. Pan-fried takes 5 extra minutes; ask for half-and-half.
Przystanek Pierogarnia in Kraków's Old Town is the no-nonsense pierogi counter locals queue at: 20 fillings, plates from 18 zl, open from 11:00 to late.
OrderPierogi z mięsem (minced meat) and the cabbage-and-mushroom version. Sour cream on the side.
TipCash and card. Counter seats only; ten stools and a window-bar.
Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: laminated menu, queue-and-pay-first, full meals for 15 to 25 zl.
OrderŻurek (sour rye soup), kotlet schabowy with mash, kompot. The whole meal lands under 25 zl.
TipBring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers; queues at lunch.
Milkbar Tomasza on Kraków's Świętego Tomasza updates the milk-bar form: same prices and naleśniki, but table service and a younger crowd. Priced at $.
OrderNaleśniki with cottage cheese and strawberry jam; the żurek soup is the runner-up.
TipClosed Monday. Breakfast all day; the brunch plate at 25 zl is the steal.
Morskie Oko in Kraków cooks Tatra-highlander Polish in a wooden-room dining hall with live folk music. Oscypek, kwaśnica cabbage soup, slow lamb.
OrderGrilled oscypek with cranberry and the kwaśnica sour-cabbage soup with smoked pork ribs.
TipLive highlander folk music in the dining room most evenings; check ahead for the schedule.
Chimera on Kraków's Świętej Anny is a salad-bar counter near the Jagiellonian University in a covered medieval courtyard. Located in Stare Miasto.
OrderA four-salad plate with the cabbage rolls; the kompot is the drink.
TipCash and card. Daily 10:00-22:00; the covered courtyard is the main dining area.
Veganic on Karmelicka in Kraków cooks Polish classics fully plant-based: pierogi ruskie with cashew cream, beetroot tartare, vegan żurek soup.
OrderVegan pierogi ruskie and the beetroot tartare. The vegan żurek runs in winter.
TipClosed Monday. The weekend brunch service is the easy table to take.
Smakołyki on Kraków's Straszewskiego is the cheap-and-honest student-canteen Polish home-cooking room: schabowy, pierogi, potato pancakes, full plate.
OrderKotlet schabowy with mashed potato and sauerkraut; pierogi ruskie as a starter.
TipCash only. Closes 22:00 weekdays; until 17:00 Sunday. No bookings.
Pod Baranem near the Wawel side of Kraków's Planty cooks classic Polish since 1997. Chef-founder Jan Baran's menu runs duck, veal cheeks, traditional soups.
OrderDuck with apple and red cabbage; veal cheeks in mushroom sauce.
TipReservation only in the evening; lunch easier as walk-in. Close to Wawel Castle.
Movida on Kraków's Mikołajska in the Old Town runs a refined cocktail and plate room: Polish Mules with Wyborowa, Polish and Mediterranean food.
DrinkPolish Mule with Wyborowa
FoodPolish, burgers, Italian and Mexican plates
TipWalk-in; open daily 16:00-03:00. Cocktails and plate menu through the night.
Prozak 2.0 in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the labyrinthine techno club tucked under Plac Dominikański with a Funktion One rig and four rooms running residents.
TipDoor from 22:30 Wed-Sat; queue thickens after midnight. The deepest basement room runs hardest after 02:00.
Klub Re on ul. św. Krzyża in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the small Old Town concert club known for booking touring indie, electronica and hip-hop acts.
TipThe summer garden is free entry; ticketed shows in the indoor room. Concerts often sell out, book through klubre.pl.
Klub Studio on the AGH student campus in Kraków is the 1,500-capacity Polish concert hall booking Jack White, Fat Freddy's Drop and Gogol Bordello through.
TipDoors usually 90 minutes before showtime; balcony seats are the easier sightline. Closest tram is Czarna Wieś or Miasteczko Studenckie AGH.
Harris Piano Jazz Bar on Kraków's Rynek Główny is the cellar room under the Main Square running live concerts every single night since 1997 and headlining.
TipFree entry to the jam sessions on Mon and Wed from 21:30; ticketed concerts most other nights from 21:00. Steps down off the square.
Piec Art on ul. Szewska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the vaulted-brick acoustic jazz cellar opened in the 1990s, with live concerts most weeknights.
TipArrive 19:30 for a candlelit table near the piano; sets usually start 21:00. The room favours acoustic over amplification.
Klub Awaria on ul. Mikołajska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the cramped Old Town blues dive booking live rock and blues acts Tuesday to Sunday.
TipLive bands most nights from 21:00; tight floor space, come early or late and brace for noise. Cash and card accepted.
Roof Top Terrace on the 5th floor of the Sheraton Grand Kraków is the hotel rooftop bar over the Vistula with a wraparound deck facing Wawel Castle.
TipOpen seasonally; rain closes the deck. Book a Wawel-side table 24 hours ahead and ride the lift to the fifth floor.
Sky Bar on the 6th floor of Hotel Stary in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the small open-air terrace looking across the Rynek Główny to St Mary's Basilica.
TipOpen in summer only; lift to the 6th floor through the hotel lobby on Szczepańska. Cocktails from 32 zł.
Mercy Brown above the Smakołyki restaurant on ul. Straszewskiego in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the unsigned art-deco speakeasy, with jazz and burlesque nights.
TipNo street signage; enter through Smakołyki and ask for the cloakroom. Cocktails from 24 zł. Book burlesque nights two weeks ahead.
Mr. Black on the second floor above the Multi Qlti pub on ul. Szewska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the dark-walled cocktail speakeasy with a small bar.
TipNo signage at street level; walk past the Multi Qlti taps and climb the stairs. Cocktails 32-45 zł; the rye and apple sour is the house call.
Wódka Cafe Bar on ul. Mikołajska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the two-floor speakeasy-tight Polish vodka room running since 2003, with around 100 flavoured.
TipOrder a tasting flight of six shots for around 30 zł; the upstairs counter is the quieter perch. Pairs with herring snacks from the menu.
Lindo Cafe & Bar on ul. Sławkowska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the rainbow-lit two-level gay-friendly venue just inside the Planty, with a daytime café.
TipUpstairs opens daytime for coffee and brunch; the cellar bar gets going from 22:00 Thu-Sat. Art exhibitions rotate monthly.
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa on ul. Floriańska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the Soviet-themed shot-and-snack chain branch right off the Rynek, with 5 zł vodkas.
TipShots from 5 zł and herring from 13 zł; the booths fill after 23:00. Stand at the counter if you want a quick stop.
Cybermachina on ul. Stolarska in Kraków's Stare Miasto is the late-night gaming pub with PlayStation, Xbox, Nintendo and Mortal Kombat cabinets in separate.
TipEntry is free with a drink purchase; Fri-Sat the room thins by 02:00. Reserve the basement Nintendo cabin for groups of four.
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