Vegab on Starowiślna near Kraków's Kazimierz is the vegan kebab and zapiekanka counter that beat the city's late-night habit at its own game. Open until 02:00 every night.
Signature dishes: Vegan seitan kebab, Vegan zapiekanka
Must order: Seitan kebab in pita with garlic sauce and pickled red cabbage; vegan zapiekanka as a backup.
Tip: Cash and card. Open until 02:00 every night; the kebab in pita is the order.
Address: ul. Starowiślna 8, 31-038 Kraków
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.
Zazie Bistro in Kraków's Kazimierz runs Lyonnais-bistro grammar in a tiny room on Józefa: tartare, escargot, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin. French-only wine list.
Signature: Tartare, Tarte tatin
Order: Beef tartare to start and the tarte tatin to share; carafe of house red.
Tip: Walk-in only. Get there before 19:00 or queue 30 minutes; closed Sunday.
Pierogarnia Krakowiacy on Szewska in Kraków's Old Town runs a 30-strong pierogi carte: ruskie, meat, duck, spinach, sweet cherry. Counter service, queue at lunch.
Signature: Pierogi ruskie, Pierogi with duck
Order: A mixed plate of pierogi ruskie and pierogi with duck; a glass of kompot to wash it down.
Tip: Pierogi come boiled or pan-fried. Pan-fried takes 5 extra minutes; ask for half-and-half.
Przystanek Pierogarnia in Kraków's Old Town is the no-nonsense pierogi counter locals queue at: 20 fillings, plates from 18 zl, open from 11:00 to late.
Signature: Pierogi z mięsem, Pierogi z kapustą i grzybami
Order: Pierogi z mięsem (minced meat) and the cabbage-and-mushroom version. Sour cream on the side.
Tip: Cash and card. Counter seats only; ten stools and a window-bar.
Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą on Kraków's Grodzka is the city's most editorial surviving milk bar: laminated menu, queue-and-pay-first, full meals for 15 to 25 zl since the 1960s.
Signature: Żurek, Kotlet schabowy
Order: Żurek (sour rye soup), kotlet schabowy with mash, kompot. The whole meal lands under 25 zl.
Tip: Bring cash; the card terminal is unreliable. Tables share with strangers; queues at lunch.
Milkbar Tomasza on Kraków's Świętego Tomasza updates the milk-bar form: same prices and naleśniki, but table service and a younger crowd. Breakfast from 09:00.
Signature: Naleśniki with cottage cheese, Pierogi
Order: Naleśniki with cottage cheese and strawberry jam; the żurek soup is the runner-up.
Tip: Closed Monday. Breakfast all day; the brunch plate at 25 zl is the steal.
Morskie Oko in Kraków cooks Tatra-highlander Polish in a wooden-room dining hall with live folk music. Oscypek, kwaśnica cabbage soup, slow lamb.
Signature: Oscypek with cranberry, Highlander lamb stew
Order: Grilled oscypek with cranberry and the kwaśnica sour-cabbage soup with smoked pork ribs.
Tip: Live highlander folk music in the dining room most evenings; check ahead for the schedule.
