Pomeranian€€main-town
Piwna 47 in Gdańsk runs a Michelin-recommended Pomeranian brasserie behind St Mary's. The menu rotates by the season, the conservatory is the best lunch table, and a Mediterranean accent keeps it light.
Signature: Pomeranian seasonal main, Bistro plates
Order: Whatever Pomeranian main is on the seasonal board, paired with a local craft beer.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Weekend dinners book out a week ahead.
Polish€€main-town
Restauracja Kubicki in Gdańsk has run since 1918 on Wartka Street, the oldest surviving room in town. Fresh fish priced by weight, the famous eisbein and a pianist Wednesday through Sunday.
Signature: Eisbein (pork knuckle), Marinated matias herring
Order: The eisbein, the kitchen's century-old never-altered dish.
Tip: Book the window tables for the Motława view at sunset.
Kashubian€€main-town
Velevetka in Gdańsk runs the city's most committed Kashubian menu in cellar rooms beneath a Długa tenement. Smoked-bacon potato cake, fish soup with mussels, mains served inside hollowed loaves of bread.
Signature: Kashubian fish soup, Pike-perch (sandacz)
Order: Kashubian fish soup followed by pike-perch served in a loaf.
Tip: Tight room of about twenty seats. Book ahead Friday and Saturday.
Polish€€main-town
Goldwasser in Gdańsk sits in a 15th-century tenement on Długie Pobrzeże, named for the liqueur first distilled in the city in 1598. Traditional Polish cooking, fresh fish, and the actual Goldwasser poured at the table.
Signature: Duck, Edible-gold steak
Order: Duck with red cabbage, with a glass of Original Danziger Goldwasser as the closer.
Tip: The Motława-side terrace from May to September is the best seat in the room.
Baltic seafood€€€main-town
Zafishowani in Gdańsk works a Tokarska Street townhouse with a wine bar and shop attached to the restaurant. Baltic fish is the only argument; halibut is the room's signature dish.
Signature: Halibut, Baltic herring tasting
Order: Halibut grilled simply, with a flight from the next-door wine shop.
Tip: The wine shop pours bottles at retail-plus prices, well under restaurant lists.
Seafood€€€targ-rybny
Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt in Gdańsk works the historic fish-market square the city was named for, with chef Patryk Domachowski running a Kashubian-Mediterranean menu of smoked eel, oysters and whole lobsters.
Signature: Whole-cooked lobster, Smoked Baltic eel
Order: Smoked eel from Hel to start, then a whole-cooked lobster as the splurge main.
Tip: Open to midnight every day. Window seats upstairs face the Hilton across Targ Rybny.
Polish seafood€€main-town
Cała Naprzód in Gdańsk crowns the Maritime Culture Centre on Tokarska with a fourth-floor terrace beside the medieval Crane. Kashubian herring, Baltic salmon, pike-perch pierogi and the best Motława view in town.
Signature: Kashubian herring, Pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi
Order: Pike-perch fillet with spinach and cauliflower, or the pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi.
Tip: Take the museum's central glass lift directly to the fourth floor.
Kashubian€€€main-town
Restauracja Filharmonia in Gdańsk runs on Ołowianka Island opposite the Old Town, with chef Marcin Szlagowski cooking Kashubian: herring tartare on placki, mustard soup, roasted goose with golce dumplings.
Signature: Herring tartare on potato pancakes, Roasted goose with golce
Order: Roasted goose with golce, the dish from Szlagowski's family table.
Tip: Cross the footbridge from Długie Pobrzeże. The dining-room view back to the Old Town is the trip.
Pierogi€€main-town
Pierogarnia Mandu in Gdańsk Śródmieście rolls pierogi to order in dough styles from yeast to spelt. The international card runs ruskie and wild boar to khinkali and Korean mandu; salmon-and-dill anchors the room's fish side.
Signature: Salmon-and-dill pierogi, Pelmeni
Order: Salmon-and-dill pierogi, with a side plate of sweet pierogi for dessert.
Tip: Made-to-order kitchen; budget 25 minutes from sitting down to the first plate.
Pierogi€€oliwa
Pierogarnia Mandu Oliwa in Gdańsk is the chain's first room, the leafy-suburb flagship near the cathedral. Same fresh-to-order pierogi as the centre, calmer pace, parking outside.
Signature: Salmon pierogi, Sweet plum pierogi
Order: A mixed half-and-half plate: savoury salmon pierogi plus sweet plum.
Tip: Order via the QR card to avoid the lunch service crush.
Pierogi€old-town
Pierogarnia Stary Młyn in Gdańsk works a long-recipe oven-baked pierogi style off Św. Ducha Street near St Mary's. A second branch on Chmielna lets the Granary Island side queue too.
Signature: Oven-baked pierogi, Ruskie pierogi
Order: The oven-baked house pierogi, golden top, butter pooling out.
Tip: Lunch sets are 30 PLN; queues thin out by 13:45.
Polish brewpub€€granary-island
Brovarnia in Gdańsk runs the city's oldest active brewery inside a 17th-century granary on Szafarnia. House-brewed Złoto Brovarni pils, Polish kitchen classics, the riverside terrace in summer.
Signature: Pork knuckle in dark beer, Złoto Brovarni pils
Order: Pork knuckle braised in the house dark beer, with a Złoto Brovarni pils on the side.
Tip: Sit in the high-beam main hall; the brewery's copper vats are visible behind the bar.
Modern Polish€€main-town
Czerwone Drzwi in Gdańsk hides behind a red door on Piwna two blocks from St Mary's. A tight Pomeranian-Polish card with a fish-of-the-day and a goose plate locals book ahead.
Signature: Pomeranian goose, Baltic fish of the day
Order: The Pomeranian goose if on; the fish of the day if not.
Tip: Around twenty seats only. Book a 19:00 slot, or wait at the small bar.
Polish€€granary-island
Vis a Vis in Gdańsk sits over the Motława on Szafarnia, facing across to the Old Town granaries. A boutique Polish menu, strong pierogi card, and the kind of riverside terrace tourists usually find by accident.
Signature: Pierogi, Polish duck
Order: A mixed pierogi plate followed by Polish duck.
Tip: Reserve the riverside-facing table at booking; it is the room's whole reason for being.
Polish€main-town
Pyra Bar in Gdańsk imports the Poznań potato-bar formula to the Old Town. Oven-baked spuds with 20-plus toppings, strong vegan options, full plates well under 40 PLN.
Signature: Oven-baked stuffed potato, Vegan potato bowl
Order: Oven-baked potato with mushroom-onion topping; vegan on request.
Tip: Order at the counter; sit upstairs by the window for the Old Town view.
Vegan Polish€€wrzeszcz
Avocado Vegan Bistro in Gdańsk Wrzeszcz cooks the Polish everyday-canon without animal product. Soy schabowy, croquettes, stews and dumplings, turned out by one of the first vegan kitchens in Poland.
Signature: Soy schabowy, Vegan pierogi
Order: Soy schabowy plate with cabbage, the room's most-asked dish.
Tip: Daily specials sell out by 14:30; arrive at lunch for the full board.
Crepes€wrzeszcz
Manekin in Gdańsk runs out of an Aleja Grunwaldzka unit in Wrzeszcz, the Poznań chain's Tri-City room. Crepes in 60-plus combinations, savoury and sweet, half-portions under 25 PLN.
Signature: Savoury crepes, Sweet crepes
Order: Half savoury, half sweet plate: spinach and goat cheese, then strawberry and white chocolate.
Tip: Tram 6 or 12 to Politechnika stop, two minutes' walk. Open to 23:00 weekends.
Modern Polish€€main-town
Pikawa Bistro in Gdańsk runs a small Old Town room beside St Mary's, sibling to the Piwna cafe two doors down. Breakfasts run until noon; a tight modern-Polish lunch follows from 12:00.
Signature: Pomeranian seasonal main, Polish breakfast plate
Order: The Polish breakfast plate; or whatever seasonal main the chef builds at lunch.
Tip: Book a window seat for the St Mary's view; weekends fill by 11:00.