Manekin in Gdańsk runs out of an Aleja Grunwaldzka unit in Wrzeszcz, the Poznań chain's Tri-City room. Crepes in 60-plus combinations, savoury and sweet, half-portions under 25 PLN.
Signature dishes: Savoury crepes, Sweet crepes
Must order: Half savoury, half sweet plate: spinach and goat cheese, then strawberry and white chocolate.
Tip: Tram 6 or 12 to Politechnika stop, two minutes' walk. Open to 23:00 weekends.
Address: Aleja Grunwaldzka 270, 80-314 Gdańsk
Pikawa Bistro in Gdańsk runs a small Old Town room beside St Mary's, sibling to the Piwna cafe two doors down. Breakfasts run until noon; a tight modern-Polish lunch follows from 12:00.
Signature: Pomeranian seasonal main, Polish breakfast plate
Order: The Polish breakfast plate; or whatever seasonal main the chef builds at lunch.
Tip: Book a window seat for the St Mary's view; weekends fill by 11:00.
Piwna 47 in Gdańsk runs a Michelin-recommended Pomeranian brasserie behind St Mary's. The menu rotates by the season, the conservatory is the best lunch table, and a Mediterranean accent keeps it light.
Signature: Pomeranian seasonal main, Bistro plates
Order: Whatever Pomeranian main is on the seasonal board, paired with a local craft beer.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Weekend dinners book out a week ahead.
Restauracja Kubicki in Gdańsk has run since 1918 on Wartka Street, the oldest surviving room in town. Fresh fish priced by weight, the famous eisbein and a pianist Wednesday through Sunday.
Signature: Eisbein (pork knuckle), Marinated matias herring
Order: The eisbein, the kitchen's century-old never-altered dish.
Tip: Book the window tables for the Motława view at sunset.
Velevetka in Gdańsk runs the city's most committed Kashubian menu in cellar rooms beneath a Długa tenement. Smoked-bacon potato cake, fish soup with mussels, mains served inside hollowed loaves of bread.
Signature: Kashubian fish soup, Pike-perch (sandacz)
Order: Kashubian fish soup followed by pike-perch served in a loaf.
Tip: Tight room of about twenty seats. Book ahead Friday and Saturday.
Goldwasser in Gdańsk sits in a 15th-century tenement on Długie Pobrzeże, named for the liqueur first distilled in the city in 1598. Traditional Polish cooking, fresh fish, and the actual Goldwasser poured at the table.
Signature: Duck, Edible-gold steak
Order: Duck with red cabbage, with a glass of Original Danziger Goldwasser as the closer.
Tip: The Motława-side terrace from May to September is the best seat in the room.
Zafishowani in Gdańsk works a Tokarska Street townhouse with a wine bar and shop attached to the restaurant. Baltic fish is the only argument; halibut is the room's signature dish.
Signature: Halibut, Baltic herring tasting
Order: Halibut grilled simply, with a flight from the next-door wine shop.
Tip: The wine shop pours bottles at retail-plus prices, well under restaurant lists.
