Oberkampf and Rue Saint-Maur are Septime country: natural-wine bars, neo-bistros and the dense weeknight booking grid the rest of Paris copies. This is where the city's modern bistro language was written and is still being revised nightly. Book ahead or eat at the bar; both work.
Bertrand Grébaut's Septime in Paris remains the room every neo-bistro in the city compares itself to. Reservations open 21 days ahead and burn within an hour.
OrderThe cured mackerel starter and whatever fish is on the second course.
TipEasier on a Tuesday lunch than Friday dinner. Same kitchen, same wine, half the wait list.
Tatiana and Katia Levha's Le Servan in Paris reads the seasonal-French rulebook through a Filipino lens. The dining room is loud, the menu changes weekly.
OrderWhatever short-rib or pork shoulder dish is on, with a glass of côtes-du-rhône.
TipLunch is a third of the price and almost as good as dinner. Booking opens 30 days out.
Septime's seafood little sister, Clamato in Paris runs no-reservation oysters, ceviche and grilled fish from 19:00. Walk-in only; queue forms by 18:45.
OrderHalf a dozen Gillardeau oysters, the hake of the day, and a plate of lardo on toast.
TipArrive at 18:45 for the first seating or after 21:30 for the second. No bookings ever.
Bistrot Paul Bert is Paris's textbook bistro: zinc bar, chalkboard menu, steak frites cooked rare with hand-cut fries, île flottante for two on a single.
OrderSteak frites cooked saignant, île flottante for two, a pichet of house red.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Book two weeks ahead for a weeknight or take the 19:30 first seating.
Iñaki Aizpitarte's Le Chateaubriand in Paris invented the modern neo-bistro tasting menu in 2006. A fixed five courses, no swap, runs €85 a head.
OrderThere is no a la carte. Trust the menu and order a bottle from the natural list.
TipBookings 09:00 the day prior; or take a 21:30 walk-in slot at the second seating.
Le Rigmarole in Paris pairs Robert Compagnon's binchotan yakitori grill with Jessica Yang's hand-rolled pasta. A nightly tasting menu only, no a la carte.
OrderTrust the kaiseki-style yakitori order; ask for the pasta as an extra course.
TipOne seating at 19:30 and one at 21:30. Book six weeks out for weekends, four for a Tuesday.
Le Saint-Sébastien is the Paris 11e wine-bar bistro that pours a tighter natural-wine list than its size suggests, with smoked herring and beef tartare.
OrderSmoked herring on warm potatoes, beef tartare cut by hand, a glass of muscadet.
TipLunch is the easier ticket than dinner. Closed Mon-Tue, full Wed-Sun service.
Chez Paul in Paris's 11e has run a corner bistro at the same Charonne address since 1908. The carte changes by season; the bistro chairs do not.
OrderBeef tartare cut by hand, cassoulet in winter, profiteroles for dessert.
TipClosed Sundays. The pavement terrace is the best seat from May to September.
Café de la Danse in Paris's 11e is the 500-capacity Passage Louis-Philippe room off Rue de Lappe, with seated and standing configurations and a chanson.
TipFind the entrance on Rue de Lappe through the covered passage; the upper balcony is the easier seated tier.
Le Bataclan in Paris's 11e is the 1,500-capacity Boulevard Voltaire concert hall with the painted pagoda facade, rebuilt and reopened in November 2016.
TipAllow extra time for bag check at door; balcony seated tier is the easier sightline if you arrive after 20:00.
Le Perchoir Ménilmontant in Paris's 11e is the original 7th-floor rooftop above an industrial building, with 360-degree views to the Sacré-Coeur.
TipRoof has no reservations; arrive 18:00 for a sofa or 21:00 once the early crowd thins. Lift goes only as far as 6e.
Moonshiner in Paris's 11e Bastille is the Art Deco speakeasy hidden behind the cold-room door of the Da Vito pizzeria on Rue Sedaine, with 83 whiskies.
TipAsk staff at Da Vito for the bar; cocktails €13-16. Quietest before 21:00, jammed after 23:00 Thu-Sat.
Lone Palm in Paris's 11e Bastille is the Ben Benayoun tiki-tinged Californian cocktail bar on Rue Keller, with a 1950s palm-and-rattan room and house frozen.
TipFrozen daiquiris are the order; arrive before 21:00 for a banquette or after 00:30 for the late lull.
Bambino in Paris's 11e is the Fabien Lombardi jazz-kissa listening bar and charcoal-grill tapas room on Rue Saint-Sébastien, with an audiophile system.
TipDinner seating 19:30-22:30 books out; after 23:00 the tables fold and the room becomes a 60-cap club.
Fréquence in Paris's 11e Bastille is the Matthieu Biron and Guillaume Quenza vinyl-only cocktail bar on Rue Keller, with 1980s funk-and-disco crates.
TipCocktails €13-15; Friday-Saturday DJ sets run to 04:00. The four bar stools at the back are the listening spot.
Le P'tit Garage in Paris's 11e Folie-Méricourt is the petrol-station-themed rock dive on Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, with vintage moto memorabilia.
TipHappy hour 18:00-21:00, pints €3; live bands most Thursday-Saturday nights from 21:00.
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