Prado in Lisbon's Baixa: Antonio Galapito cooks farm-to-table Portuguese in a converted fish factory with Roman ruins, biodynamic wine list.
Signature: Whole fish, Seasonal vegetables
Order: The vegetable starters and whichever whole fish landed that morning.
Tasca Kome in Lisbon's Baixa: a Japanese-run kitchen on Rua da Madalena, serving takoyaki, salmon zukedon and ika somen sashimi, no fusion gimmicks.
Signature: Takoyaki, Salmon zukedon, Ika somen
Order: Salmon zukedon if you only have time for one bowl.
Nicolau in Lisbon's Baixa: an all-day brunch counter on Rua de Sao Nicolau, sweet and savoury pancakes, acai bowls and the original of a family of three.
Signature drink: Acai bowl with fresh orange juice
Confeitaria Nacional on Lisbon's Praca da Figueira: the city's oldest patisserie, in continuous operation since 1829, six generations of one family.
Worth the queue: Bolo Rei, the Christmas crown loaf introduced here in 1875
A Ginjinha in Lisbon's Baixa: a hole-in-the-wall on Largo de Sao Domingos, sour-cherry liqueur served standing for 1.50 euros, open since 1840.
Signature drink: Ginjinha sour cherry liqueur, served standing
Food: None
As Bifanas do Afonso in Lisbon's Baixa: a stand-up counter on Rua da Madalena famed for one thing, the bifana, garlic-paprika pork in soft bread.
Try: Bifana, marinated pork sandwich
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau on Lisbon's Rua Augusta: a tourist counter for cod cakes filled with melted Serra da Estrela, served with port.
Try: Pastel de bacalhau filled with Serra da Estrela cheese
Casa das Bifanas in Lisbon's Baixa: a long counter on Praca Dom Joao da Camara, bifanas with sharp Portuguese mustard and a Sagres in a sleeve glass.
Try: Bifana with mustard
Devour Tours Tastes and Traditions in Lisbon: a 3-hour walk through Baixa, Chiado and Cais do Sodre, eight tastings at seven small businesses, three drinks pairings.
Eating Europe's Undiscovered Lisbon walks Baixa and Mouraria for three and a half hours, five stops of bifana, bacalhau a bras, octopus salad and pastel de nata, drinks included.
Cooking Lisbon Pastel de Nata Experience: no shortcuts, traditional puff pastry laminated by hand, finishing with the silky baked custard filling.
As Bifanas do Afonso on Lisbon's Rua da Madalena: bifanas at 2.50 euros, stand-up counter, beer in a sleeve, no chairs, lunch in five minutes flat.
Try: Bifana, marinated pork sandwich
Casa Portuguesa on Lisbon's Rua Augusta: a 4-euro cod cake stuffed with melted Serra da Estrela, paired with a glass of port, snack-sized on a wood plate.
Try: Pastel de bacalhau with Serra cheese
Nicolau in Lisbon's Baixa: an all-day brunch counter on Rua de Sao Nicolau, sweet and savoury pancakes, acai bowls and the original of a family of three.
Order: Acai bowl with mango and granola, fresh orange juice.