Damas ★ 4.3
Why locals love it: A Graca bakery-bar-bistro hybrid that turns into a natural-wine bar with live music at night, off the Bairro Alto circuit.
Tip: Come for dinner Thursday for a band, stay for the pet-nat list.
Tasca Kome in Lisbon's Baixa: a Japanese-run kitchen on Rua da Madalena, serving takoyaki, salmon zukedon and ika somen sashimi, no fusion gimmicks.
Why locals love it: A traditional Japanese kitchen on Rua da Madalena run by a Japanese team, no fusion gimmicks, lunch zukedon as good as anywhere in Lisbon.
Tip: Book salmon zukedon for lunch. Closed Mondays and most of August.
Address: Rua da Madalena 57, 1100-318 Lisboa, Lisbon
Why locals love it: A Graca bakery-bar-bistro hybrid that turns into a natural-wine bar with live music at night, off the Bairro Alto circuit.
Tip: Come for dinner Thursday for a band, stay for the pet-nat list.
Why locals love it: A back-alley Mouraria tasca with no signage, tile walls and charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, locals fill the long table by 19:30.
Tip: Cash only. Arrive at 12:30 or 19:30 sharp or you queue in the alley.
Why locals love it: A candlelit vegan tapas room down a Mouraria alley you would never find on purpose, with cushions on the front steps for warm nights.
Tip: Cash only and dinner-only. Book by Instagram a few days ahead.
Why locals love it: A neo-tasca tucked behind Sao Cristovao church that books out a month ahead via Instagram DM, tourists rarely find their way.
Tip: DM the Instagram account for reservations. Walk-ins are very rare.
Why locals love it: A grocer-wine-bar hybrid in Santos pouring small Portuguese growers, with sourdough sandwiches at lunch that no one writes about.
Tip: Order whatever pet-nat is open. The lunch sandwich changes daily.
Why locals love it: A hilltop Graca taproom on a quiet street, ten Portuguese craft beers in a room with three tables, opens 17:00.
Tip: Walk up from Tram 28's Graca stop. Stay for a flight of all ten taps.