The caruggi between the old port and Piazza De Ferrari, where focaccerie, farinata ovens, historic confectioners and trattorie share lanes with most of the city's bars.
Cucina Valoria on Piazza Valoria in Genoa's old centre has 26 seats and a daily-changing menu from chef Davide Suanno, inspired mainly by the Ligurian sea.
OrderWhatever is on that day's menu, which the chef builds around the best ingredients available.
TipLunch is served Tuesday to Sunday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday; the kitchen is closed all day on Monday.
Ladidà on Via di San Sebastiano in Genoa is an Italian brasserie with a meat-led menu, an outdoor dehors and a club room that opens after dinner.
OrderA meat course from the brasserie menu, which the site describes as a menu of the land.
TipThursday and Friday serve lunch and dinner, Saturday is dinner only, and the restaurant is closed on Sunday.
E Prie Rosse on Via di Ravecca in Genoa has served since 1998 in a building with 16th-century foundations and is named for its exposed red bricks.
OrderRavioli di magro with butter and sage, or the acciughe ripiene alla genovese.
TipThe house wine, a Barbera d'Asti and a Vermentino, is left open on the table and you pay only for what you drink.
Macelli44 Agri-bistrot on Via dei Macelli di Soziglia in Genoa serves organic pasture-raised beef, farm salumi and biodynamic wines in the caruggi.
OrderThe battuta al coltello or the bombarolo, beef bombette stuffed with liver, egg and herbs.
TipThe site says the bistrot is in the Osterie d'Italia guide and belongs to the Slow Food Cooks' Alliance.
7 Sensi Cucina Decontaminata on Piazza di Sarzano in Genoa is chef Davide Gesi's small restaurant, with a vegetarian alternative and a Feng Shui interior.
OrderThe vegetarian alternative the chef designed, or the short menu of Italian technique with travel flavours.
TipThe site's contact block lists dinner from 19:30 and its footer from 19:00; it also says the kitchen keeps salt and sugar low.
Alla Lunga on Vico Giannini in the Genoa caruggi is a young restaurant whose menu changes about every three weeks, with a wine list of over 100 labels.
OrderThe tasting menu, downloadable from the restaurant's page, or the seasonal carta.
TipThe site lists dinner only from Tuesday to Friday; lunch and dinner are served on Saturday and Sunday.
20Tre on Via David Chiossone in Genoa's old centre has themed dining rooms and Genoese cooking enriched with ingredients from other regions of Italy.
OrderThe cappon magro, which the restaurant also delivers to homes.
TipThe page says it is closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday, and lists a private room, gift menus and home delivery.
Osteria Le Colonne in Piazza Invrea, 80 metres from Genoa's cathedral, serves mandilli al pesto, ravioli al tuccù and brandacujun at lunch and dinner daily.
OrderMandilli al pesto (€13.50) or the brandacujun with salsa verde (€12), both on the site.
TipThe site gives lunch from 12:15 to 14:30 and dinner from 19:15 to 22:30 every day, with a WhatsApp booking line.
Sà Pesta on Via dei Giustiniani in Genoa is a shop and trattoria dating to 1889, with a wood oven for farinata, savoury pies and stuffed anchovies.
OrderFarinata from the wood oven, or the mixed house plate that sits beside it on the menu.
TipThe site lists lunch Monday to Saturday and dinner Thursday to Saturday only; the same dishes are sold at the shop counter.
Osteria Il Cadraio, in a former coach depot beside Via Garibaldi in Genoa, serves Ligurian dishes, farinata and focaccia every day at lunch and dinner.
OrderFarinata or focaccia at lunch, or the minestrone genovese, which the kitchen can serve without pasta.
TipIts booking page says it closes on Sundays in July and August, and requests after 19:00 must be made by phone.
O Boteco in Palazzo della Meridiana, Genoa, serves Portuguese petiscos and bacalhau beside Ligurian trofie al pesto, run by chef Marilia Oliveira.
OrderBacalhau à Brás, the cataplana or bolinho de bacalhau from the petiscos, all on the site's menu list.
TipThe site calls its menu indicative because it changes often; book on WhatsApp or through the TheFork link on its booking page.
Douce on Piazza Matteotti in Genoa is a pastry-led café, listed with Tre Tazzine and Tre Chicchi in Gambero Rosso's Bar d'Italia 2026 guide.
TipThe counter lists croissants, pain au chocolat and pain aux raisins for breakfast; Sunday hours run from 07:30 to 19:30.
Pasticceria Klainguti on Piazza di Soziglia in Genoa reopened in June 2025 under the Douce group and took Gambero Rosso's Novità dell'Anno award.
TipThe reopened shop's own page names the Falstaff brioche, made for Verdi, and the torta Zena among the recipes it revived.
Caffè degli Specchi on Salita Pollaiuoli in Genoa opened in 1908 as a liquor shop and now serves coffee and pastry daily from 09:00 under a tiled vault.
TipThe upper room is open morning and afternoon, the lower room only in the afternoon; the site lists air conditioning, Wi-Fi and a 12:00 restaurant service.
Tazze Pazze on Piazza Cinque Lampadi in Genoa is a compact specialty coffee café with filter and cold brew, and it serves international breakfast and brunch.
TipA second shop opened at Via Cesarea 14r in June 2026, according to Mentelocale; the Cinque Lampadi shop is the original, opened almost ten years earlier.
La Corte Romanengo on Via Soziglia in Genoa is a salon de thé beside the 1814 confectioner, serving breakfast, lunch and tea, and new to the 2027 Tre Tazzine.
TipRomanengo's site lists breakfast, brunch, lunch, gelato, tea and aperitivo, and the room was once the family's private salon.
Caffetteria Pasticceria Romeo Viganotti in Genoa pours its own roasted coffee with brioches and torta Zena, open seven days on Salita del Prione.
TipThe chocolate shop and workshop are a few steps away at Vico dei Castagna 14r, and the gelateria at Salita del Prione 12r opens from 12:30.
Bar Gilda on Piazza delle Vigne in Genoa is a listening bar and bistro by Palazzo Grillo, with breakfast from 10:00, lunch, aperitivo and pizza al padellino.
DrinkCappuccino
TipBreakfast runs 10:00 to 12:00 with eggs Benedict, French toast and avocado toast, and a record player stays on for the room.
Pâtisserie 918 on Vico di San Matteo in Genoa is a French-style pastry shop with a coffee counter, serving croissants, macarons and a creamy cappuccino.
DrinkCappuccino
TipClosed Mondays; Morsi Magazine's April 2026 breakfast guide lists it for a cappuccino with focaccia among the morning pastries.
Focaccia e Dintorni in Genoa bakes focaccia from 07:00 to 20:00 every day, with farinata, polpettone genovese and pandolce, in an old district oven.
TipA second shop trades at Via San Lorenzo 91r; the Canneto il Curto counter draws a queue of regulars every day, according to Gambero Rosso.
Douce by Palazzo Ducale is a French-style pasticceria in Genoa with croissants, macarons and monoportion cakes, open seven days a week, Sunday included.
TipThe same group runs Klainguti on Piazza Soziglia and Caffè degli Specchi on Salita Pollaiuoli, so all three sit in the old town.
Romeo Viganotti has made chocolate in Genoa since 1866, selling chocolates and pralines at Vico dei Castagna and running booked workshop visits.
TipGuided workshop visits last one hour and cost €15 for adults, booked by WhatsApp, according to the shop's Experience page.
Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano on Via Soziglia in Genoa is a confectioner's shop opened in 1814, selling candied fruit, fondants and chocolate.
TipThe 1814 shop is protected by the heritage authority; a second shop sits at Via Roma 51r and the La Corte tea room adjoins this one.
Antico Forno Patrone bakes thin, well-oiled focaccia genovese on Via di Ravecca in Genoa, and the Gambero Rosso bakery guide last rated it in 2026.
TipBakery 1970, a gluten-free counter run by the same family, sits opposite at Via di Ravecca 69r, according to Mentelocale.
Antico Forno della Casana has baked focaccia in a narrow Genoa alley since 2004, with farinata, vegetable pies, pesto and fresh pasta at the counter.
TipThe shop also sells Recco-style cheese focaccia according to its own page; the hours are Monday to Saturday with an afternoon break.
Panificio e Grissineria Claretta in Genoa bakes hand-stretched grissini, bread and focaccia in a small Via della Posta Vecchia shop with Turin roots.
TipThe shop reopens in the afternoon only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, so go in the morning on the other days.
Romeo Viganotti, the chocolate house of Vico dei Castagna in Genoa, founded in 1866, also roasts coffee, mostly in wood-fired ovens, and sells blends online.
BeansPeru, Colombia, Brazil, Guatemala
BrewsEspresso, Moka, Cappuccino, Filter
TipHouse blends range from 100% Arabica to 40% Arabica with 60% Robusta, and single-origin Peru, Colombia, Brazil and Guatemala coffees are on sale.
Migone Enoteca Ristorante has poured wine in Piazza San Matteo, Genoa, since 1870, with more than 2,000 labels and a Ligurian menu that changes weekly.
WineCinque Terre DOC, Colline di Levanto DOC, Colli di Luni DOC, Golfo del Tigullio DOC and Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, plus national and international labels
FoodLigurian restaurant menu that changes from week to week
TipThe kitchen is closed on Sunday except for groups by appointment, and the enoteca counter keeps its own hours and opens every day in December.
Bella Bu pours natural wine and cocktails with tapas below Via Garibaldi in Genoa, and keeps about 50 gins behind the bar for its 18:30 aperitivo.
WineNatural wine, selected by the owners for the by-the-glass list
FoodTapas for the aperitivo and a seasonal dinner menu
TipPhone bookings are taken daily from 11:00, the aperitivo tapas run 18:30 to 21:00, and the bistrot closes on Sundays except on holidays.
Ai Troeggi is a pub-bistrot on Via Chiabrera in Genoa, a few steps from the cathedral, that pairs natural wine and craft beer with bruschette.
WineNatural wine, with craft beer alongside
FoodBruschette are the house speciality
TipBruschette are the house speciality, served with natural wine by the glass or craft beer; the bar is open in the evening only.
Bocù Drinketti e Vinelli is a bistrot on Piazza delle Erbe in Genoa that pours local and national wines by the glass beside cocktails and cheese boards.
WineLocal and national wines by the glass, with cellar tasting nights
FoodCured meat and cheese boards; kitchen open until 23:00
TipCellar tastings run every second Tuesday at 20:00 from 6 October 2026, with four glasses and a board to share; the kitchen closes at 23:00.
Enoteca Bottiglieria Pesce has sold wine and liqueurs on Via di Sottoripa in Genoa since 1933 and runs tastings in the shop, open six days a week.
WineLigurian, Italian and foreign wines, with liqueurs
FoodTastings in the shop
TipPort workers, the camalli, are still regulars according to the owners, and a paid delivery service covers Genoa on weekdays.
Les Rouges runs a seasonal cocktail list on the first floor of the sixteenth-century Palazzo Imperiale in Piazza Campetto, in Genoa's old town.
DrinkSuper Kaffir: gin infused with kaffir lime leaves, with tonic
FoodDishes such as fried anchovies and brandacujun alongside the drinks
TipCocktails cost about €11 on the Identità Golose listing, and the bar also serves food; Sunday service ends at 22:00.
Malkovich is a password-only speakeasy below the Groove burger restaurant in Genoa, serving film-themed cocktails since 2015 on a new theme each year.
DrinkFilm-themed cocktails; the 2025 list is called Sinestesia
TipBook through the venue's page for up to eight guests on 90-minute tables; the password question at the door changes every month.
Jenoir is a cocktail bar on Salita di San Matteo in Genoa, styled on the cocktail bars of 1930s Paris, opened in February 2026 with cocktails from €8.
FoodSmall plates, with a food menu published on the venue's site
TipTables are booked through the venue's TheFork widget; the bar is closed on Sunday and Monday.
Velier in Banchi is a bar and bistrot in Piazza Banchi, Genoa, opened on 16 July 2026 inside the Genoa Store, with cocktails, rare spirits and food.
FoodAperitivo and dinner plates built around producers in the Velier network
TipOpen from 11:00 to 24:00, Thursday to Monday; the 200 square metre room shares Palazzo Serra with the Genoa FC store.
Fela! is a music bar in Genoa's old town that mixes black music, vinyl and DJ nights, natural wine and signature cocktails at €10, opened in April 2025.
DrinkSignature cocktails with African and exotic references, all €10
FoodTapas-style small plates, sandwiches and cheese and cured-meat boards
TipWednesday is for vinyl diggers, Thursday for listening sessions and live sets; Friday and Saturday add DJs and a small club room.
La Compagnia del 28 Erbe is a bar with a gin list and an Italian kitchen on Piazza delle Erbe in Genoa, open from 18:00 until 03:00, six days a week.
FoodItalian kitchen with fresh dishes
TipClosed on Mondays; the venue's own site has a gin bar page with gins from around the world, and the kitchen serves Italian dishes.
Scurreria Beer and Bagel is a craft-beer pub on Via di Scurreria near Genoa's cathedral, pouring beer on tap alongside bagels and burgers in the old town.
DrinkCraft beer on tap
FoodBagels and burgers
TipOpen from 12:00 on Saturday and Sunday and from 18:00 on other days; it joined the Vinicoli 2026 week as a food partner.
Ai Troeggi is a pub-bistrot on Via Chiabrera in Genoa, a few steps from the cathedral, that pairs natural wine and craft beer with bruschette.
DrinkNatural wine by the glass and craft beer
FoodBruschette
TipBruschette are the house speciality, served with natural wine by the glass or craft beer; the bar is open in the evening only.
Bocù Drinketti e Vinelli is a bistrot on Piazza delle Erbe in Genoa that mixes cocktails on passito and vermouth bases beside a list of wines by the glass.
DrinkSpritz Bisù, a ready-to-drink mix of lemon, sage, sweet wine and elderflower
FoodCured meat and cheese boards; kitchen open until 23:00
TipThe 2025-26 drink list has Sei un Mi-To, with Campari, red vermouth and Pantelleria passito, at €10, and a vermouth and soda at €8.
Le Delizie dell'Amico is a sciamadda on Via di Canneto il Lungo in Genoa, named Ligurian champion in Gambero Rosso's Street Food 2026 guide.
TryFarinata, stuffed anchovies and vegetable pies
TipTripe is the Thursday special and stockfish the Friday one, according to La Voce di Genova; eat at the shelves inside or take away.
Antica Friggitoria Carega on Genoa's Sottoripa arcades fries squid, prawns and anchovies and sells panissa and farinata; it is a listed heritage shop.
TryFried fish, panissa and farinata
TipInside, tiles, display cases and stools keep the traditional layout, per LiguriaDay's July 2025 walk along Sottoripa.
Antica Sciamadda on Via San Giorgio in Genoa is a farinata shop, and Gambero Rosso's 2025 rating calls farinata the queen of its traditional Genoese menu.
TryFarinata and vegetable pies
TipTouring Club Italiano lists the shop as closed in July, August and at Christmas, so check before a summer visit.
Gran Ristoro under the Sottoripa arcades in Genoa builds panini from a long display of cured meats and cheeses, with prices from about 2.50 euros.
TryPanini with cured meats and cheeses
TipGambero Rosso says the queue starts at 11:30, and Dissapore puts most panini between 2.50 and 5 euros.
Alalunga Pescatori in città is a fishermen's street-food counter inside the Via del Campo market in Genoa, serving fish burgers, panini and fritto misto.
TryFish burger, fish panini and fritto misto cones
TipThe menu changes daily with the catch, and the counter was lunch-only in March 2026, with evening opening planned.
Rooster on Piazza Matteotti in Genoa is a rotisserie serving spit-roast chicken, sandwiches, salads and poke bowls, with a panissa aperitivo from 17:00.
TrySpit-roast chicken
TipGambero Rosso's listing records a 2024 street-food regional champion award; Rooster also has Genoa shops on Via Fiasella and at Porto Antico.
Antico Forno della Casana sells focaccia and farinata over the counter in a narrow Genoa alley, and Gambero Rosso files it under street food for 2025.
TryFocaccia genovese and farinata
TipGambero Rosso's street-food listing and its own page both point to the focaccia; the counter closes for an afternoon break from 14:00 to 16:00.
Focaccia e Dintorni in Genoa sells focaccia by the slice from 07:00 to 20:00 every day, and calls it the queen of Genoese street food on its own page.
TryFocaccia by the slice
TipGambero Rosso wrote in August 2026 that it draws a long line of regulars; farinata and polpettone genovese are also on the counter.
Maltus Faber has brewed unfiltered, unpasteurised Belgian-style beer in Genoa since 2008 and pours it on twelve taps at La Coccagna, near Porta Soprana.
TipThe brewery on Via Fegino 3G sells beer and runs guided tastings on Saturdays by booking; the La Coccagna taproom is closed on Tuesdays.
Mercato di Campagna Amica Via del Campo in Genoa is a covered farmers' market in eight shopfronts, with oil, pesto, basil, honey and local produce.
TipAlalunga, a fishermen's street-food counter, opened inside the market in March 2026 and serves lunch Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 to 15:00.
Creattivando teaches pesto in a marble mortar in Palazzo Imperiale, a Rolli palace in Genoa's old town, then serves it on focaccia and trofiette with wine.
TipThe entrance gate faces Via di Scurreria between two olive trees, and the class is on the second piano nobile; canestrelli close the tasting.
BioTigullio5Terre runs pesto al mortaio masterclasses in its shop on Via di Ravecca in Genoa's old town, ending with your pesto on trofie and Ligurian wine.
TipThe shop is about 100 metres from Columbus' house; each guest leaves with a small jar of pesto and a certificate, and no cooking experience is needed.
Osteria Le Colonne in Piazza Invrea, Genoa, lists panissa at €6, brandacujun at €12 and mandilli al pesto at €13.50 on its site, open every day.
OrderPanissa fritta (€6) to start, then the brandacujun (€12) or mandilli al pesto (€13.50).
TipTiramisu is €7 and baccalà alla ligure €16 on the same list; the site adds a WhatsApp number for bookings.
Tazze Pazze on Piazza Cinque Lampadi in Genoa serves an international brunch of pancakes, avocado toast and eggs, plus a vegan version, with specialty coffee.
OrderPancakes, avocado toast, eggs and banana bread with a specialty coffee.
TipMentelocale says brunch runs at weekends in winter and every day once the warm season starts, so confirm the schedule for your date.
La Corte Romanengo in Genoa lists a brunch of sweet and savoury house-made dishes with fresh juices, served in the former family salon on Via Soziglia.
OrderSweet and savoury house-made dishes with fresh juices and a hot drink.
TipThe site gives no separate brunch hours, so plan within the salon's Tuesday to Saturday opening, 10:00 to 19:00.
La Teiera Magica on Via di Ravecca in Genoa serves a weekend brunch from 11:30, with eggs in cocotte, filled bagels and muffins, and tea or coffee.
OrderEggs in cocotte, filled bagels and the day's sweets with tea or coffee.
TipMentelocale advises booking, and lactose-free and vegetarian alternatives are available on request.
Rebecca Pasticceria on Via Luccoli in Genoa runs a Sunday brunch, an all-inclusive menu of dishes, pastries and coffee, with a classic and a veg version.
OrderThe Sunday brunch menu, with creative dishes, pastries and coffee or drinks, in classic or veg.
TipThe site gives no brunch start time and asks guests to book, so plan around the shop's Sunday opening, 10:00 to 18:00.
Bar Gilda in Genoa serves a late sweet and savoury breakfast from 10:00 to 12:00, with eggs Benedict and French toast, then bistro plates until 17:00.
OrderEggs Benedict, French toast or avocado toast with a cappuccino before 12:00.
TipGenovaToday puts the egg dishes and avocado toast at €9 to €12, and the bistro kitchen carries on from 12:30 until 17:00.
Les Rouges on Piazza Campetto in Genoa is a restaurant and cocktail bar open since 2013, with simple cooking and hours to 01:00 on Friday and Saturday.
OrderA cocktail built on local spirits, with the kitchen's simple plates alongside.
TipThe site gives one set of hours for kitchen and bar, to midnight on Wednesday and Thursday and 01:00 on Friday and Saturday, and no separate kitchen close.
O Boteco by Piazza della Meridiana in Genoa serves Portuguese petiscos, bacalhau and Ligurian trofie until midnight from Tuesday to Saturday.
OrderBacalhau à Brás, the cataplana or bolinho de bacalhau from the petiscos, all on the site's menu list.
TipThe kitchen runs to 24:00 Tuesday to Saturday but closes after Sunday lunch; the site calls its menu indicative because it changes often.
Louisiana Jazz Club has put on live jazz in Genoa since 1964, and on Via San Sebastiano since 1998, with blues, funk and soul nights among its concerts.
TipConcerts on the club's calendar start at 21:30, for example CCCB on Friday 2 October 2026; entry is by membership card.
Malkovich is a password-only speakeasy below the Groove burger restaurant in Genoa, serving film-themed cocktails since 2015 on a new theme each year.
TipBook through the venue's page for up to eight guests on 90-minute tables; the password question at the door changes every month.
La Compagnia del 28 Erbe is a bar with a gin list and an Italian kitchen on Piazza delle Erbe in Genoa, open from 18:00 until 03:00, six days a week.
TipClosed on Mondays; the venue's own site has a gin bar page with gins from around the world, and the kitchen serves Italian dishes.
5 hours
Tour the vibrant local market and immerse yourself in a private cooking class in a local home with a certified home cook. Learn local recipes and taste everything you'...
4 hours
Join a Genoa cooking class to learn pesto, gnocchi, focaccia, and canestrelli, then enjoy your dishes with wine and finish with artisan gelato in the city center.
4 hours
Tour the vibrant local markets and immerse yourself in a private lunch or dinner in a local home with a certified home cook. Enjoy an exclusive cooking demo and taste ...